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Auto-Belay Devices

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
superkick wrote:though the one at the gym near me claims to be a fully magnetic system..but doesnt use a BD magnetron for clipping in? whats up with that???
yes it should have the magnetron otherwise it could be injurious to rest or it could make you lazy and a dangerous newbie of lead climbing.
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Ericka Heath wrote: David, that brings up yet another issue I hadn't thought of--device failure. The one's at the whitewater center are not even as sophisticated as what you are referring to. One misplaced hand or foot and your on the ground before you know it. They don't even give you lessons on how to use the damn thing. I watched two girls pony up to the wall and get hooked in. Off they go, only to fall flat on their butts when they missed a step. They said the only thing they had ever climbed was the stairs to their apartment!!!!!!
OH MY GOD!
Did you start WW runs with Class 4? Why not - there are folks who can do them in squirt boats, and it looks easy.
Perhaps you rolled your playboat after thinking about it?
And, that cartwheel came naturally to you as well?

I am quite sure they would be willing to provide instruction
Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245
Jeremy Riesberg wrote:Ahh, this has to be a joke.
not a joke. she is just new to the sport. give her some slack.

Ericka: Hang dogging is actually the act of "climbing" a route on lead (normally a route that is much harder than the leader is actually able to climb fluently), then resting frequently on the rope at each bolt, possibly even using the quickdraws as holds to get past cruxes.

To rest frequently without the use of the rope is normal and good technique. But as others have said, you must learn to do it correctly or you'll just waste more energy than you're saving.

Auto belays are nice if you use them correctly, because you can get some endurance training in with no partner. But suck if you are trying to work on a particular section, because rather than let you try one move over and over, it will just let you down after your first failure.

My advice; find partners. Bouldering is pretty social. And can be done alone in a gym too. Keep at it!
The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Jon Zucco wrote: not a joke. she is just new to the sport. give her some slack. Ericka: Hang dogging is actually the act of "climbing" a route on lead (normally a route that is much harder than the leader is actually able to climb fluently), then resting frequently on the rope at each bolt, possibly even using the quickdraws as holds to get past cruxes. To rest frequently without the use of the rope is normal and good technique. But as others have said, you must learn to do it correctly or you'll just waste more energy than you're saving. Auto belays are nice if you use them correctly, because you can get some endurance training in with no partner. But suck if you are trying to work on a particular section, because rather than let you try one move over and over, it will just let you down after your first failure. My advice; find partners. Bouldering is pretty social. And can be done alone in a gym too. Keep at it!
Thanks Jon. Yes. I am very new to climbing. Lighten up people. It's climbing. No need to get bent. I know what "Hangdog" means. I was using it in a silly way to explain how I felt just chilling out at the top with no one around to help or offer advice. Not using it in the proper climber jargon apparently rips some people's hides. Get over it! Thank goodness I am a better person than that. As a cop, I could really rip some ignorant drivers and otherwise non-law abiding citizens into shreds. I started climbing to keep me sane and not say or do what I really would like to do to ignorant people who should be removed from the gene pool. It's climbing. People chill! Many thanks to those of you are supportive. Know, if you are ever my way, I will be glad to assist you in any way--food, shelter, police, fire, or medical. Just hollar.
The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
chufftard wrote: just FYI, many of the people in the outdoor sports you participate in smoke weed. in other words, we break the law on a regular basis.
I know. I have arrested a few. Lol! FYI: It wasn't the weed that made 'em stupid. They were already stupid to begin with. Believe it or not, the weed was secondary and probably wouldn't have been discovered if they were not otherwise dummies. Lol!! Could really care less about the pot smoking issue. Never had to fight a hemp head. But I won't get into that argument... :-)
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Ericka Heath wrote: I know. I have arrested a few. Lol! FYI: It wasn't the weed that made 'em stupid. They were already stupid to begin with. Believe it or not, the weed was secondary and probably wouldn't have been discovered if they were not otherwise dummies. Lol!! Could really care less about the pot smoking issue. Never had to fight a hemp head. But I won't get into that argument... :-)
you are a stellar representative of the law enforcement community

thank you for your service
sanz · · Pisgah Forest, NC · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 210
Ericka Heath wrote:As a cop, I could really rip some ignorant drivers and otherwise non-law abiding citizens into shreds. I started climbing to keep me sane and not say or do what I really would like to do to ignorant people who should be removed from the gene pool.
Although I believe that any functioning society needs a code of law, and although I have met police officers that are good and decent people, the fact that so many cops have this kind of attitude is the reason I and many others tend to agree with NWA.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
youtube.com/watch?v=gx4jn77…

once you climb more youll find that the ability to to climb up and down while absolutely pumped and hang there for quite a while is quite important on harder overhung routes

and use your feet ... if you are getting over pumped on the typical easy vertical autobelay route, your footwork and body positioning is to blame ... not the "fault" of any autobelay or its concept ... its your weakness

RESPECT MY AUTHORITAH !!!

;)
The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
sanz wrote: Although I believe that any functioning society needs a code of law, and although I have met police officers that are good and decent people, the fact that so many cops have this kind of attitude is the reason I and many others tend to agree with NWA.
Sanz, sorry you feel that way. Most PEOPLE generally are good folks. I don't think you are bad person. Believe me when I say this, there are VERY bad people out there. They care nothing for you or anyone else. Therefore, I still stand by my gene pool comment. 10 years of exposure to people like that can twist a person. That's why I seek outlets that are healthy and non-destructive. Climbing happens to be one of them.

Maybe we can meet one day and sort it all out. Peace be with you.
The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
bearbreeder wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gx4jn77VKlQ once you climb more youll find that the ability to to climb up and down while absolutely pumped and hang there for quite a while is quite important on harder overhung routes and use your feet ... if you are getting over pumped on the typical easy vertical autobelay route, your footwork and body positioning is to blame ... not the "fault" of any autobelay or its concept ... its your weakness RESPECT MY AUTHORITAH !!! ;)
LOVE THIS!!!! TOO FUNNY! SO FORGOT ABOUT THAT ONE!! I was literally waiting on a Super Troopers joke.

Totally agree with you on the footwork and body positioning. That's why I was looking around for my "spotter" to throw up advice. Apparently, he would rather walk off and horse play with his buddy. My arms and shoulders were killing me. When I climb real rock, I don't experience this problem. Thank you for your advice.
Reginald McChufferton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

I hope this entire thread is a troll. I fear it's not.

The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Jake Jones wrote: I don't think it rips peoples' hides, it's that just as you as a cop use certain terms that are particular to your profession. Climbing is no different. You wouldn't say "yellow" when you mean "blue" and you wouldn't answer "yes" to a question when you mean "no". Hangdogging as you describe it is the opposite of what it is. So when you're soliciting advice or help or starting a discussion in a forum, knowing what terms mean and using them properly is important if you're seeking an accurate answer.
Jake, I get what you're saying. Some comments on here got the better of me. I am much calmer now. I posted because I was ticked off at being left to literally hang there. I didn't want to drop. I wanted to complete the route, but being inexperienced I couldn't see my options. My "spotter" was off somewhere horse playing. The point I was making about this auto-belay system was I don't think it's very safe for inexperienced climbers or at least newbies to be left to fend for themselves. This concept was presented to me as though it was the best thing to do and even install at your home if you don't have a climbing partner.
The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Reginald McChufferton wrote:I hope this entire thread is a troll. I fear it's not.
BWAHAHAHAHA....nope
Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Erika- if some total rookie with your department showed up and just started saying things that you knew were either mis-informed or just flat out wrong, would you not tell the kid to just clam up and wait until a little bit more experience kicks in before making so many conclusions?
No one puts an auto belay in their house for cryin out loud. Hanging on a rope to rest up and then try again is common for us, but is also a failure and usually embarrassing. An auto belay is tough and unforgiving, but ultimately will teach you much better route management skills in the long run. Hang-dogging -the real version- only reinforces bad habits and keeps you from advancing.

The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Mike Lane wrote:Erika- if some total rookie with your department showed up and just started saying things that you knew were either mis-informed or just flat out wrong, would you not tell the kid to just clam up and wait until a little bit more experience kicks in before making so many conclusions? No one puts an auto belay in their house for cryin out loud. Hanging on a rope to rest up and then try again is common for us, but is also a failure and usually embarrassing. An auto belay is tough and unforgiving, but ultimately will teach you much better route management skills in the long run. Hang-dogging -the real version- only reinforces bad habits and keeps you from advancing.
I feel ya brother. Seriously, that's what this dude told me. If he had seemed at all interested in helping the people out there, we could have all learned something. Maybe he has less experience than me...who knows.

I could see how it would test your stamina and route management, but leaving a rookie out to dry is plain wrong. That's what got me fired up to start with.
The Maverick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Reginald McChufferton wrote:And poof, just like that Ericka Heath a sgt with the Hickory, NC Police dept. has turned into Maverick . Now she can tell all of us low lifes what she really thinks of us. This should be good.
No...now come on....I just acquired this nickname yesterday. It's a long story and one that should be discussed over beer. I lost a bet and that's ALL I am saying.

No one here is a low life.
Glbj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

you no like, you no use !

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
NC Rock Climber wrote:In the gym I use I have, on more than one occasion, see a person get to the top, prepare to lean back only to realize that they forgot to clip into the auto belay. Sounds stupid, but it happens with frightening regularity.
Seriously? Sounds like your gym's clients will be appearing in an upcoming Darwin Award.

Or maybe they won't die in the gym, but rather take their new-found radness out to the local crag. I can see it now:

"Local College Student Falls at Lion Den State Park. 24 year old Heima Dypschitt suffered a fatal fall yesterday. Witnesses said the victim had hiked to the top of the cliff on the usual hiking trail. Then, to the amazement of onlookers, he walked to the edge of the precipice, turned around to face them, yelled "on rappel" and took three steps backwards. Authorities at the scene reported that Dypschitt was not wearing a harness and that there was no rope anywhere."
ChristopherAust · · Ohio · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

Here, I'll contribute.
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Gunkiemike wrote: Seriously? Sounds like your gym's clients will be appearing in an upcoming Darwin Award.
I don't think your knowledge of human intelligence and fallibility has kept up with the science. There are plenty of quite interesting popular books available which you might enjoy.

It's actually a miracle any of us last as long as we do!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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