static rope preference?

Hi all,

i finally have enough money to move away from webbing for my TR setups this winter and am looking at static ropes to use for rigging TRs for ice cragging.

Two questions:

1) any preferences as far as brand and diameter of static rope? (I've looked at something like the Sterling Assault and even though its bomber, its almost 12mm wide and super stiff).

2) I am wondering if I can kill two birds with one stone and purchase about 60 -70 meters of static rope to not only set up top rope anchors but also use for a tag line. Any thoughts on this dual use and what diameter/ brand of rope would work for this?

thank you!

I've used Bluewater II Plus static rope a fair amount, in the 11.6 diameter. It's so burly, though, that if I were shopping now I'd probably go with the 10.6 diameter. I also have 200 feet of Bluewater polypro static (10.2 diameter) that's not quite as tough, but a bit lighter. They've both been fine, with very few bulges or flat spots, and they haven't stiffened up too badly after lots of rappels.

Maybe I'm missing something but why do you want to do this? Webbing is a lot lighter and cheaper than static line and plenty strong, especially for a TR.

That being said, you certainly can use a 60m static line as a tag line but again, you are dealing with a ton of extra weight for no reason at all.

Edit to add that I know a thick static line has better abrasion resistance than webbing.

Hi Steve. I want to switch to static line because I feel that in my situation, it is easier to use, more options as far as rigging goes (ie clove hitches, bowline, trace eight, etc), beefier and more abrasion resistant, and if I can find a static line that doubles as a tag line, probably as a little closer to being as cost effective as webbing.

i understand that there will be tradeoffs as far as weight and cost goes, but i just wanted to see if the MP community could weigh in on using a tag line as a top rope rigging line as well and if it is worth it. Plan B would be just waiting on a tag line and getting about 75 feet (?) of static line exclusively for TR setups.

Thanks for your answer to my question.

I love my Bluewater II fatty for using single strand for rapping in and cleaning routes. I buy them in 250' lengths off the spool. They wear like iron even if I have to leave them out in the weather for a while(though I do take care they are not running over anything sharp and tie off to sub anchors on the way down). I also like the fact that they are discretely bland colored and can't be confused for a dynamic rope. It is beastly heavy though, so I can't suggest using it for a tag line. For an anchor - sure.

Fair enough. I've got a bluewater big wall static line that is 10mm. I like it for a haul line. If you are just using a the tag line as a pull line you could use 6-7mm cord. I think a 60m spool of 6mm cord is like 60-70 bucks.

A static line is much faster/easier to set-up a top-rope anchor (I'm sure webbing aficionados will argue that) but I don't see it doubling as a tag line. If you mean a tag line for pulling the climbing rope on rappel then you want something really thin like 7-8mm not something you would use for a top-rope set-up. Static ropes can be really stiff. PMI makes an "EZ-bend" rope that is more pliable. You can buy it by the foot at REI.

Brian

i think i need to clarify: i would like to be able to use a static line as both top rope rigging, as well as bring it in my pack for multipitch ice climbs using a dynamic single rope for the actual leading and then tying the static line and dynamic line together for full length raps.

feasible? or just too much rope to deal with? after listening to the answers so far it sounds like I should just buy enough static line for TR rigging and save up for a dedicated 70m length for rapping (or half ropes).

It's possible but would be heavy and a pain the arse. You would be much better off using something else for rapping.

I use a 8mm static line for top rope setup. Unless you're whipping repeatedly on your top ropes or taking out a large group, I think you're fine.

As a tagline, I think you're missing the self-rescue benefits of having a climbable dynamic rope. But that's another discussion.

Reepschnur. :-)

They wear like iron regardless of the fact that I need to forget them in the climate for some time however I do fare thee well they are not running over whatever and tie off to sub stays on the route down.

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Sterling Safetypro. I use the 10.5 mm but 10 would be good for you. Supple, wears super well. That thing has handled years of abuse and shows like its new still.

vermaine wrote:i think i need to clarify: i would like to be able to use a static line as both top rope rigging, as well as bring it in my pack for multipitch ice climbs using a dynamic single rope for the actual leading and then tying the static line and dynamic line together for full length raps. feasible?

Sure, you can do that. But know that static ropes are heavy. A 10mm static rope will weight as much if not more than a 11mm dynamic rope in many cases. If you are going to do that I would just go with some cordlette. It is strong enough to rig TR lines, especially if you have 60m of it, and it is light enough that it wont add multiple grades to the climb from weighing you down.