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Song of the Canyon Wren
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Dry Fork of Bull Canyon
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Song of the Canyon Wren T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Widen, Tony Valdes, 1986. FFA: John Rosholt, 1994. |
| Page Views: | 1,000 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | jakobi on Nov 28, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route starts as hands/wide hands climbing past an old fixed hex. The angle kicks back to slightly overhanging wide hands for 15 ft through a bulge to a stance. From the stance a short section of easy offwidth leads to a sloping ledge and a set of bolted anchors. It seems the original ascent tension traversed to the right to gain a thin hands splitter, we climbed the crack straight off the ledge which is perfect hands for a ways before eventually pinching down to stacks before the next anchor.
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