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Mountaineer's Coil that doesn't bite?

Original Post
Shadrock · · Here and there. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 430

I can't help but notice that the Mountaineer's Coil has been making some fashionable appearances lately on such high profile folks as Conrad Anker and Ueli Steck ,which I find odd considering how badly it kinks ropes. I've always used the Butterfly coil, but as I've started carrying a single strand of Double on solos there have definitely been times when I was looking for a more compact coil. The one time I tried it, however, it kinked my rope so bad I swore "never again." Am I missing something?

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

Try a figure-8 coil and then fold the two halves of the "8" so they come together in one large loop.

MTKirk · · Billings, MT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 245

You can also do the "Over Under" coil. The first coil (& 3rd, 5th, 7th, etc.) is made with the running end on top, the second (& 4th, 6th, 8th, etc.) with the running end on the bottom. Works great no twists!
youtube.com/watch?v=qMGf15B…

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

In those 2 situations, I'm guessing they use it for two reasons. First, the coil rests over the shoulder and out of the way of the small pack and won't loosen up and require re-adjustment like a butterfly coil is prone to. I sometimes find it difficult to get a butterfly coil to stay where I want it when I wear one with a pack. Second, they're soloing and might want to quickly remove the coiled rope and use it. This can be a little easier with a mountaineer's coil.

When I use a rope for alpine travel,e.g. glaciers, or simu-climbing I find it easier to use a mountaineers-type coil (I use a Kiwi coil) for each climber to shorten up the rope between the climbers. It is easy to drop some coils and adjust the length of rope between the two climbers.

I agree that it is hard to tie one with it coil the rope.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

The coil is way more comfortable, better balanced on your body, and always ready to go. No flaking necessary. It is important to do the half twist, then half untwist. If done correctly it works beautifully. I use it when time is of the essence. I stretch the rope out completely down a long sidewalk. Then while standing in one place and puling the rope to me I do the twist and untwist seen in the video above. Its great to do the night before a big climb.

clay meier · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 350

The mountaineers coil is usefull for short roping and glacier travel where the leader or guide needs to be able to lengthen or shorten the distance betwean him (her) self and the person next in line on the rope team. I dont typically use it on a solo trip.

Shadrock · · Here and there. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 430

Really appreciate all the comments. I'm looking into new coils for the same reasons that csproul mentioned. I'm not short roping: it's all about rapping off or having quick access to my cord in case something goes south. I do find that the butterfly tends to shift around. Sounds like the "over under" is a good way to prep the night before. I always get antsy anyways... and just kinda fiddle with gear!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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