Type: | Sport, 220 ft (67 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,734 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | jtwalter on Oct 31, 2010 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted.
Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
Description
Formerly a trad line that was rated 5.9R, Gordian Knot has been retro-bolted in the past few years after a fall produced a heinous injury. A pitch has also been added to the top of the wall.
P1 - Start to the left of the house sized rock at the base of Sticky Revelations and climb past 3 bolts to a ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 5.7, 3 bolts.
P2 - Climb through thin holds to the roof using the right side of the arete to pull over, continue through a awkward moves to two rap anchors. 5.10a, 7 bolts.
P3 - Continue up over another small roof to the top a large ledge. 5.10b, 3 bolts.
P4 - The last pitch involves long reaches with little to no feet for a the first two bolts before the holds get better. Climb past 3 bolts to the top of the wall. 5.10d, 3 bolts.
Recommend running pitch 2 and 3 together. If pitch 4 was as fun as the rest of the route this would get 4 stars.
P1 - Start to the left of the house sized rock at the base of Sticky Revelations and climb past 3 bolts to a ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 5.7, 3 bolts.
P2 - Climb through thin holds to the roof using the right side of the arete to pull over, continue through a awkward moves to two rap anchors. 5.10a, 7 bolts.
P3 - Continue up over another small roof to the top a large ledge. 5.10b, 3 bolts.
P4 - The last pitch involves long reaches with little to no feet for a the first two bolts before the holds get better. Climb past 3 bolts to the top of the wall. 5.10d, 3 bolts.
Recommend running pitch 2 and 3 together. If pitch 4 was as fun as the rest of the route this would get 4 stars.
Location
Gordian Knot climbs the arete just to the left of Sticky Revelations. It starts on the left side of the large rock formation to the left of the start for Sticky Revelations.
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