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Outdoor Ed Class

michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120
Matty H wrote:okay just to clarify, this is straight from the AMGA SPI manual i recieved in 2011: "Angles As angles in the anchor increase so does the forces applied to each placement. Angles like this are not only created in the construction of complex anchor systems, multiplication of force can be created when tying around boulders or large trees and tying them off too tight. Remember to check for these angles in all anchor setups. As a rule, it is advisable to keep angles under 90°. As angles increase, loads will also increase on each component, so these components would need to be built to withstand such extreme forces." it also shows a diagram with the force applied to each anchor at different angles with a 1000 lb load. at 20 degrees 500 lbs to both. at 40 degrees 540 lbs to both at 80 degrees 700 lbs to both and at 120 degrees, 1000 lbs of force on each anchor. hope this clears up the angle confusion I seem to have caused.
I was going to say, I know the answer is in the SPI manual. This is correct. It's geometry, plain and simple. I'll echo that it will be next to impossible to get people to understand this without pictures.
Matt.H Haron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 185

Thanks guys for all the help. Not only did I do well, I got a 94, but it got me to brush up on anchor building so I can be a better and safer climber.
Thanks guys
-Matty H.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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