Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13

Ben Brutsch wrote:I top-roped the apron Monday and today. The lines are in but its getting thinner and softer, not sure it will survive the week. I also took a hike up to Roberts Horn on Friday (11/9) found no ice anywhere. It might have started forming since.

I hiked up to Miller's Thriller on the 22nd, no ice anywhere.

However, I finally found a trail (Bush whacked it up there for years), looks like somebody has been working hard on building a nice trail up to the area. Go across the Upper Bridge, then behind the abandoned pump house, up the main trail for ~40 yards then turn and head west. It was marked with surveyors tape.

Dirtcicle 11/28. 24 up there at 9:45AM today. Climbed and protected well. A little wet but it always is.

Dirtcicle

^^^
The Dirtcicle has never looked so good!

Anyone been up LCC to climb ice?

kevinhansen wrote:Anyone been up LCC to climb ice?

Nope. Way too warm. Mid 40's at Alta.

Brian in SLC wrote: Nope. Way too warm. Mid 40's at Alta.

How about Dirtcicle?

Climbed it 2 days ago. look at page 1.

Climbed the dirtcicle this morning. It's in halfway decent shape (similar to the photo on page one) but super drippy even at dawn. Get there early and bring a hardshell. Some fun moves on the left side if you're adventurous.

anybody know of anything in other than the dirtcicle?

I just called the Jackson HMG and Exum and no one is answering while its dumping. "Lake Louise isn't even frozen, its been so warm."
There is a guy who is climbing up a ton in Hyalite. He posted this earlier today

I wouldn't be too bummed about ice conditions out here, and certainly wouldn't cancel a trip if you already had it planned.

Over the last 3 days I have climbed the Scepter, Mummy II, The Matrix, Responsible Family Man, and the Dribbles. All were in great condition. Over by Emerald Lake Sleight of Hand, High Fidelity, and Comet/Asteroid are all in. Flanders: Champagne Sherb/Slot and High Crimes are in, looked like Killer Pillar was very close to touching about 5 days ago. Main Fork: All the climbs mentioned above, plus G1 and 2, Hangover, Greensleeves, Twin Falls, Elevator Shaft, the Thrill, drytool routes on the Unnamed Wall, Feeding the Cat, Climb Above Dribbles... all are in. Looks like things are going to stay warm for a few days but overall ice season is in full swing over here!

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

Well, that's good news to me. Heading to Cody/Hyalite for 6 days on Thursday. Bozeman Ice Fest should be good times. Hopefully things get cold pretty quick, this 50 deg. crap ain't going to make any ice

Headed to the Dirtcicle (is this also known as the Price sicle?) tomorrow morning. Leaving SLC at 6 am. Let me know if you want a ride or to meet up. Was planning on TR soloing it unless someone wants to swap belays. Will check email first thing in morning. Shoot me your phone #.

Did anyone end up climbing the dirtcicle yesterday?

Earl, take me, take me! Oh wait, I'm stuck at work. You should check out the Mirror Lake Highway in the Uinta, too. Brandon and I had great luck there this time last year.

Climbed it on Friday. It was a constant trickle of water by 8:00 when I started climbing. Did several laps and by 11:30 when I left it was a cold shower. Matt, wish you could have been there. It was a good warm up for the season.

Can you hike to the top of the Dirtcicle to set up a TR?

Yup. The hike starts to the east of the climb. Easy access to the two equalized sapling and a fence post anchor.

cdec wrote:Yup. The hike starts to the east of the climb. Easy access to the two equalized sapling and a fence post anchor.

Yea man, The new blue cordage is mine. Its too bad with as popular as the route can be that there isn't a place to drill permanent anchors. I suppose you could drape a mile of chain from the cement thing up higher, but I bet someone would snatch it if given the chance.
Kevin

Yeah. I really looked around a bit the other day and it is a gravel pit up top. It's about as good as it can be though. Maybe someone wants to take a hammer to that post and drive it a bit deeper.

I was the original post installer. We were down there a couple weeks ago and took the second post and drove it into the ground a few feet up from the first post. If you look the second post is only sticking out of the ground about 2 1/2-3 feet which means that at least 4 ft of that post is in the ground. Not much you can do with the post that is right on the edge it is too rocky right there to get in any further and it is frozen in place. With the Blue static line running up to the cottonwood and those two posts equalized together you have a solid anchor. There is not much else right there to anchor to. If you are really worried you can take another 120' piece of rope and run it up and south to the big cottonwood tree that is up on the top of the hill.
Dallen