All Locations > Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Sunshine Wall

Dangles Crack

Name: Dangles Crack
Rating: 3.7

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British V1 YDS 5 Font

Routes in Sunshine Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blind Faith T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dangles Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5
	Kimchi S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rusty Nail, The A1-
	Stepping Stone TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c V2 5+

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Type:	Trad, TR, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,129 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012
Admins:	Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! With a awesome layback on overhanging red granite, make your way up to the top. The crux is where the crack runs out. Make a big reach for the top and mantle.

Location

This crack is in the center of south wall, to the right of an old, bolted, aid traverse Rusty Nail.

Protection

There is a single bolt next to a flake the is good for a second/third placement for your top anchor. This line could be bouldered bu the crux is the top out mantle move which felt more comfortable on a TR.