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Routes in Romper Room
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Algae on Parade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Buzz Buzz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Doobie Dance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Frank's Right Foot Stinks TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Girls and Buoys T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Guise and Gals T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hall of Mirrors T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Kindergarten Cop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic Mirror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Romper Room T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed Top Rope TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | John Martinet, Jeff Gordon 1978 |
| Page Views: | 11,652 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Feb 10, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route is the last one on the climber's right on the square, black-varnished wall which houses the routes Doobie Dance and Romper Room.
Pitch 1- Crux pitch. Climb the left-facing corner/crack, pulling a small overhang onto a ledge with a large bush. Scramble up to the next large bush on another ledge.
Pitch 2- Climb the low-angle crack system to a belay stance in a left-facing corner.
Pitch 3- Head up the easy crack/varnished face to a large ledge.
Pitch 4- A pitch worth of fourth class. Those that are not comfortable with 4th-class terrain may want to rope up.
Descent:
WARNING: THE OLD GUIDEBOOKS ARE WRONG! Do not descend via Lotta Balls descent gully. It is long, indirect, brushy, and involves tricky ropework. THE BEST WAY TO DESCEND is to move right (west) from the top of the climb and scramble down a gully (3rd class on its west side) to a ledge with a small pine tree and rap station. Or if you have a 70m rope you can avoid the gully by rapping from the first set of rap anchors you come to (shown as "1st rap station) in the photos. From there, THREE (not two, as stated in the guidebook) single-rope rappels (60m rope works) - final rap is off a hanging tree - and a little downclimbing take you to the base of the wall just east of Rising Moons. If you have two ropes, easiest way down is to do TWO double rope rappels starting from the first 70m anchor station.
Re: Pitch 1
There is a rap anchor, one bolt and natural pro at the first ledge with a bush, if you choose to do only the first worthy pitch. You'll need two ropes to rap. Also... you may want to bring some webbing to back up the ratty ones if you plan on rapping from pitch 1.
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