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Routes in Main Cliff Right
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Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Pie* T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Toad* S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Freebird* T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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High Roller* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Losing Eleven* S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Magic Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic Helmet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Resurrection Stone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stained Glass Ceiling* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stairway to Heaven* S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond |
| Page Views: | 1,876 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Nov 20, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Pitch 1: Climb your prefered start, the original start is on Wendels Route (trad). This beginning can be wet, wide and over grown so you might do better to climb the nice clean Charity Case 5.9 (bolted) unless adventure is one of your primary goals. These routes both lead to a shared belay on a nice ledge way below the big orange roof. or you can clip that anchor and walk left to another anchor (or at least 1 bolt with gear options) that is hard to see but over there.
Pitch 2: Continue up Wendels Route (some route finding to do here as I remember) until you see a nice, huge undercling flake heading across the wall to the left. Climb that sweet flake to meet up with the last bit of Rock Du Jours. You might want to split this pitch up due to rope drag. 2 rappels with a 60 meter rope to the ground.
Side note: It has been maybe 10+ years since I last did this route. LOTS of bolts have gone in on this wall since then so you will run in to bolts along the way. Not sure exactly how "trad" it is these days.
Pitch 2: Continue up Wendels Route (some route finding to do here as I remember) until you see a nice, huge undercling flake heading across the wall to the left. Climb that sweet flake to meet up with the last bit of Rock Du Jours. You might want to split this pitch up due to rope drag. 2 rappels with a 60 meter rope to the ground.
Side note: It has been maybe 10+ years since I last did this route. LOTS of bolts have gone in on this wall since then so you will run in to bolts along the way. Not sure exactly how "trad" it is these days.
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