3-4 point equalettes...
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So i've been messing around with the equalette some more and made this... |
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why are you moving? don't move. |
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That anchor isn't so much self equalizing. Not all anchors will be, or truely need to be. Your goal is to set the anchor in the most likely direction of pull, which is easy to do with your anchor. If you need something to be able to adjust for all ranges, you have to go a different route. |
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IMHO, if the pieces are bomber, you are fine. |
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Chase, I use the Equalette almost exclusively. While learning and analyzing it in my basement I made the same observation (when moving side to side one arm will go slack). |
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Awesome belay spot, I bet there is even a BBQ close by. |
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Thanks everyone for the advice and info. I do have the "sliding x" method in this particular photo. What ive taken out of this is if you pull 3 pieces toward your direction of pull, yes they will all equalize nearly perfectly, however moving off that direction of pull only will only make one slack, keeping two at 50% load. I guess it would be a fair conclusion to say that this set-up is usually better than the cordelette which doesnt equalize that wel especially off direction of pulll. I guess ill stick to this method and back up the piece that never slacks. |
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I'm just trying to learn this myself so correct me if I'm wrong and sorry if this is just nitpicking. Shouldn't the girth hitch on the left sling be done the other way so it isn't pulling back across the sling and amplifying the force at that point? |
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"self-equalizing" is second priority to redundancy. You can have any number of pieces of protection, but if they are not joined independently to a knot, the system has no redundancy. Meaning: if you cut any single strand in your system, what would happen to the rest of the system? On the right side you rely on a single strand, in the case of a failure in your cordelette you would lose two pieces of protection. |
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Chase, you're fine. Use whatever method you like best. You don't need to back up the piece on the solitary leg. |
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Only complaint I have about the Equalette is the extension if a strand breaks. Other than that, I've climbed on it and it seems quite solid. It's very nice for efficiency IMHO because you can leave it tied and have a fairly bomber anchor that's very fast between pitches. Since we trust the single rope not to break, trusting that a single strand of 6 or 7 mil not to break seems like a pretty safe bet to me. |
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Cale Hoopes wrote:Only complaint I have about the Equalette is the extension if a strand breaks. Other than that, I've climbed on it and it seems quite solid. It's very nice for efficiency IMHO because you can leave it tied and have a fairly bomber anchor that's very fast between pitches. Since we trust the single rope not to break, trusting that a single strand of 6 or 7 mil not to break seems like a pretty safe bet to me.The extension is limited to the distance between your two "sliding knots" which should only be a total of 8 to 10 inches. This will limit the extension less than 10 inches. No big deal. |
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That anchor is totally lacking in redundancy. If that beam blows you're gonna have some issues buddy! |
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Justin Tomlinson wrote: (when moving side to side one arm will go slack).This is precisely one the biggest advantages of the equalette. You are very likely to have at least two arms of the anchor sharing the load. With a cordalette, only a slight change in direction means only on piece will be loaded. |
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BWIce wrote:On the right side you rely on a single strand, in the case of a failure in your cordelette you would lose two pieces of protection.No, this is wrong. If each arm is attached with a clove, as it appears to be, they are independent. |