Back to climbing shape after a Thru-Hike?

I was terrified to realize that after four months of hiking (with practically no upper body use) on the PCT that I was having issues on 5.5s the first time I went climbing (and only time sine I finished like a week ago).

I have re-read Mark Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" in order to see what he recommended as far as workouts to get into climbing shape. Sadly, he doesn't offer any suggestions on workouts directed at building an upper body foundation, which I need again.

So besides climbing, what would you recommend as far as workouts and training regimins to get back to climbing at or above the level I was when I left?

Jace Mullen wrote:I was terrified to realize that after four months of hiking (with practically no upper body use) on the PCT that I was having issues on 5.5s the first time I went climbing (and only time sine I finished like a week ago). I have re-read Mark Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" in order to see what he recommended as far as workouts to get into climbing shape. Sadly, he doesn't offer any suggestions on workouts directed at building an upper body foundation, which I need again. So besides climbing, what would you recommend as far as workouts and training regimins to get back to climbing at or above the level I was when I left?

Besides climbing? Resting after climbing. Then more climbing. Rinse and repeat. I would guess that in doing the PCT, you have probably shed a few unnecessary pounds that will benefit you anyway. If you are struggling with 5.5s, then definitely just focus on climbing.

Since upper-body doesn't even really come into play on anything under 5.7 or so, I'd say it's more a matter of not having been on rock than anything to do with losing upper body strength.

You're probably lighter with better cardio than before. Just go climbing. Boulder in the gym if you have access to one, but at that level, time on rock is really what you need.

I have had several 4-6 month hiatuses from climbing, and I have found that it usually takes me about 6 weeks of climbing regularly (~3 days/week) for me to feel like I am at something resembling good "normal" climbing fitness and ability.

This spring, I had an unfortunate pairing of injuries (knee, shoulder, both of right side, unrelated to each other) that prevented me from getting any excercise for 4 months (early Feb to early June). When I started climbing again in early June, I was in terrible fitness, but by late July (8 weeks) I was in as good a climbing fitness as I had ever been in, and by mid-August I had surpassed that and was in, by far, my best fitness ever.

Notable details to this story are that I was climbing a lot, and that I was climbing in a very physically demanding area (mostly Rifle). I I was climbing less, the comeback would not have been as effective, and if I had not been climbing in such a fitness-oriented place, I would not have gained strength as quickly.

As such, I reccommend doing as much overhanging sport climbing as possible. Gym climbing helps too.

Listen to your body, and take rest days as needed. You may need to tkae rest days more frequently (i.e. day-on-day-off) until you are feeling a bit fitter.

I hiked the AT in 3 months last year and thought I would never get my strength back. It only took a month to get back to where I was at. I did pull-ups and push-ups. A few weeks after that I was stronger than I was prior to my thru-hike.

Update: I just joined a bouldering gym because it was super cheap and it is open 24/7 meaning that I can climb WAY more than I would otherwise be able to. My biggest challenge now is finding mid-week partners so I can get out on real rock more.

I've also been swimming and running to help increase overall fitness. We'll see what happens next time I try leading rock. Hopefully good things.

I also live in Oceanside, CA. Where is the 24/7 bouldering gym? I would like to look into it.

Jace Mullen wrote:Update: I just joined a bouldering gym because it was super cheap and it is open 24/7 meaning that I can climb WAY more than I would otherwise be able to. My biggest challenge now is finding mid-week partners so I can get out on real rock more. I've also been swimming and running to help increase overall fitness. We'll see what happens next time I try leading rock. Hopefully good things.

Just to clarify-

Yo Momma'99 wrote: p.s. just to clarify : sport climbing at a gym is not really climbing ...its TRAINING for climbing, son.

One thing that my partner told me right when I got off the PCT: You know you're not wearing a backpack anymore right?

You're probably struggling on 5.5 cause you're using a bent forward at the waist stance and its killing your footwork. Concentrate on balance and posture, by the time you get those straightened out your upper body strength will be close to back where you need it.

Jace Mullen wrote:I was terrified to realize that after four months of hiking (with practically no upper body use) on the PCT that I was having issues on 5.5s the first time I went climbing (and only time sine I finished like a week ago). I have re-read Mark Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" in order to see what he recommended as far as workouts to get into climbing shape. Sadly, he doesn't offer any suggestions on workouts directed at building an upper body foundation, which I need again. So besides climbing, what would you recommend as far as workouts and training regimins to get back to climbing at or above the level I was when I left?

Optimistic wrote: I was terrified to realize that after four months of hiking (with practically no upper body use) on the PCT that I was having issues on 5.5s the first time I went climbing (and only time sine I finished like a week ago). I have re-read Mark Twight's "Extreme Alpinism" in order to see what he recommended as far as workouts to get into climbing shape. Sadly, he doesn't offer any suggestions on workouts directed at building an upper body foundation, which I need again. So besides climbing, what would you recommend as far as workouts and training regimins to get back to climbing at or above the level I was when I left? Not directly related to your question, but people were speculating that you might have lost some weight on the hike: did you? I've always been curious about a big hike like that as a way to drop some poundage...but maybe you didn't have any poundage to drop?

I just finished pct, did not feel like I had much to loose but lost at least 15 lbs (not weighted myself yet after the hike completion). Upper body muscles are gone. It's good to know that you can get back to climbing in 1-2 months of good effort. I will report back on how the return to rock works out.