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Routes in Casket Quarry (ICE/MIXED)
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A) The Alpine Route WI3 |
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B) Crescent S M8- |
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C) Turkey Chute S M8 |
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D) Bare Hug S M8+ |
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DD) Open Casket S M7+ |
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E) Deer Bait S M7- |
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EE) Cat Bait S M8 |
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F) Cat's Paw S M7-8 |
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G) Crocodile Tiers S M6-7 |
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H) Strike Three S,TR M6 |
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I) The Chimney S,TR WI5 M5 |
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J) Shaken, Not Stirred S M8+ |
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K) Extra Dry Vermouth S M9- |
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L) Martini S M6-7 |
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Ledaig'er TR M8 |
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N) -unfinished- S M7 |
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NN) Off-road S M7 |
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O) Reefer Madness S M7+ |
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P) Blind Faith S M6+ |
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Q) Big Blue - ICE WI4-5 |
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R) Big Blue: LEFT Mixed Finish S M6+ |
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S) Big Blue: CENTER Mixed Finish S M6 |
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T) Big Blue: RIGHT Mixed Finish S M5-6 |
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U) Turning To Stone S M7 |
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UU) Drop Off S M8 |
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V) Thin and Bear It S,TR M6 |
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VV) unknown S,TR M6 |
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VVV) unknown 2 TR M6- |
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W) Off-Ramp S M6-7 |
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X) The Ramp WI3 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, TR, Mixed, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | James Loveridge (Bolted Mixed Version) |
| Page Views: | 2,176 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | nodin on Dec 10, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Location
This climb starts in the large and prominent Right facing dihedral about 20 feet Left of "The Chimney".
Description
Start at the bottom of a large right facing dihedral and move up following thin seam/cracks in corner. In some years, there is a bit of ice around the 6th/7th bolt. Past this, where the left wall of the dihedral goes away you have two options: move left to an awkward stance, then climb up and directly right to the anchors -or- go straight up on broken mungy ledges to anchor. The former is a little more insecure but little bit easier than the latter.
Protection
9 Quickdraws for bolts. Its quite safe but I have heard some complaints so if enough people comment on wanting more bolts Ill consider pulling them all and re-bolting it.
History
This route has been climbed in the summer as a scary 5.10 trad route, original protected with "a hammer and a bucket of borrowed pitons". Today however, it is excellent in it's current state as an exercise in torqueing and delicate footwork. No bucket needed
(Thanks to James Loveridge for supplying the info above)
(Thanks to James Loveridge for supplying the info above)
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