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Derek Smalls' Crack
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in 11: Bill's Buttress
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Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Existing route.. No idea who climbed it first. |
| Page Views: | 1,579 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Burton Lindquist on Sep 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
30 feet of straight in, sustained, slightly over hung, and wide finger crack that's too narrow to hand jam unless you have adolescent sized paws. There is a slight jog in the crack at mid-height that gives up a nice narrow horizontal hold above which the crux is to be found where the crack is absolutely parallel and below which there is some irregularity affording OK fingers locks and stacks. There is very little for the feet all along the fissure and the climber is forced to toe jam aggressively or make wide stems. At the top it eases off where the crack widens around a block or two and relinquishes a layback move. Burly lead!
Location
The small tower that is situated above and to the left of "Coatimundi Crack" on Bill's Buttress and makes an excellent alternate finish to any of the routes in this vicinty. Or... one could descend from above at the finish area above "Coatimudi Crack" and climb this great fissure on it's own from the ledge system at 3\4 height on this buttress.
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