Best 5.8-5.10s at Rumney
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I live in Asheville, NC and my wife and I are heading up to Boston in a few days for about a week. We are going to go to Rumney to climb for a day or two and I was wondering about routes. I mostly climb easy trad (5.6-5.8) but since I dont get much sport climbing around here I want to push myself on some 5.9s and 5.10s. Im looking for fairly low concequence routes that Im not going to deck on if I fall. Anyone have suggestions? We will be there next thursday and friday so hopefully the weather cooperates and we get some good climbing in. Thanks for the advice in advance. |
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Lonesome Dove, and Jolt. Both are amazing 10a's. |
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Get up early and run up to the Main Cliff before the crowds arrive. Start at the Armed and Dangerous area then head up to the main face where you should definitely get on Underdog 10a if you can. . compared to North Carolina, you will probably find the routes very well protected. Bonsai is another crag you should also check out. Centerpiece is a steep pumpy 10 there that you can push your self on. The parking lot wall has some pretty good routes in the grades you want that are very close to the car, so either get there very early or hit them at the end of the day. Besides the Main Cliff, heading higher up the hill generally gains better climbing. |
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I'll second Lonesome Dove and if you're up there I'd suggest Junco (5.8) as well |
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gio92 wrote:I'll second Lonesome Dove and if you're up there I'd suggest Junco (5.8) as well+1 Best climbs I've done at Rumney, although I'm looking forward to getting on a bunch more next visit. |
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I am partial to the 5.8~5.10 at A&D Wall and Main Cliff proper. So many to choose from. I think I had almost 20 on the last count. |
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my favorite 5.8 is Metamorphasis at Armed and Dangerous Wall |
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I forgot about Smokestack. That is one of my favorites too, if it is dry. Ace of Spades is a nice 10 to the right also, and there are a few 8s and 9s nearby. if you get good weather, definitely do the hike up to the Hinterlands area one day. |
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Smolestack = full value at .9+ like Centerpiece is = full value at .10d :):) Both are great climbs though. |
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obi wan ryobi and yoda are great 9s... check those out at Lower Darth Vader Crag if the main wall gets filled up. |
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First of all welcome to New England. The climbing at Rumney can be varied. Here are my 2 cents on what I consider to be "classic" routes for Rumney. |
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Rumney is awesome and you'll have plenty to do in those grades. Here is my list of favorites, it probably overlaps heavily with what others have said. |
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Though out of the way, "B-B-Buttress" up at Yellow Knife, certainly gets my vote for best 5.9 @ Rumney, and "Sweet Polly Purebred" has replaced "Armed and Dangerous" as my favorite moderate 10 @ the Main Cliff. Regardless of where you go, you will certainly find a fun assortment of routes at your level (except for Waimea and Orange Crush). |
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S. Neoh wrote:Bonsai has 5 (4x 5.10 and 1 5.9) in a row for you to run through. Centerpiece is closer to .11a though and Peer Perssure is .10d.I'd recommend against Peer Pressure if you are looking for low consequence climbs like the OP. The move to the second bolt is very tenuous, with a nice swing into a sharp block the result of blowing the move to the clipping stance off the monocrimp with high feet. It can get a bit scary at around the fifth bolt as well. There is a beautiful rest ledge that is awesome while you are on it, but can be intimidating when you face whipping into it on the moves from the large flake. Overall a quality climb though. |