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Routes in 5. Children's Crusade Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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[Redacted] T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beelzebub Corner, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Boy's Brigade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Children's Crusade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dress Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Eliminate, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Problem Child T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Reign of Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Recall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA. P. Ross, F. Dean, M. Bowin 9/19/71 FFA 1,2,3 & 5 Doug Madara & Mark Richey 1978 4 & 6 P. Boissenault & F. Modugno 10/82 |
| Page Views: | 3,506 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Nov 9, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
The Eliminate is one of the best long routes in the White Mountains. It climbs a direct line up the left side of the Children's Crusade Wall. The climb is surprisingly steep, with only one pitch, the third, feeling particularly slabby. The last two pitches climb through multiple roofs at the very top of the wall.
The climbing on The Eliminate is very sustained, with all pitches clocking in at 10d or harder. The protection is not particularly mindless. More often than not, finding suitable pro takes cunning and a cool head. Brassies in incipient seams and small cams behind blocks are the norm, especially on the first, fourth, and fifth pitches.
Pitch 1: 5.10d. The pitch, known as The Eliminate Direct, climbs up a corner and past a roof. The crux is pulling the roof and the pro is a bit complicated. Pull the roof and then continue straight up, passing a really cool solution pocket, to a tree belay at the base of the crux corner. Some choose to avoid this pitch by climbing the dirty wide corner to the right at 5.7.
Pitch 2: 5.11c. This is the crux pitch. Stem between the tree and the wall and clip a high bolt. Make a committing transition move onto the wall. It is also possible to climb directly up the wall without using the tree (stick clip the bolt). Once established in the slight corner, follow it to its top and clip another bolt. From here, head directly left along a ledge and execute a 5.8R mantle to another ledge. Walk back right and belay at a fixed pin anchor.
Pitch 3: 5.10d. A long pitch. Climb the left facing corner to its end. The corner starts out slabby (crux) and thin, but steepens and widens until it forms a beautiful fingercrack layback. When the corner ends, wander up and right, past loose blocks and bushes, to a two bolt anchor below the steeper upper pitches.
Pitch 4: 5.10d PG-13. Head up through the overhangs above the belay. The pro is tricky here, as some blocks seem a bit more loose than others. Awkward climbing leads past a fixed knifeblade that can be backed up with some brass offsets. The pitch ends at a two bolt belay on a little ledge.
Pitch 5: 5.10d. Head straight up off the belay (10c), clipping a fixed pin for pro. At the next ledge, clip a bolt and traverse directly right (10d) into the steep, hanging dihedral. Climb up the dihedral, past four pins, to an exit on the right. From this airy stance, traverse right and pull an easy roof at the very top of the cliff. Belay at two bolts. Most parties rap from here.
Pitch 6: 5.8. If you choose, climb dirty rock to the top of the cliff.
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