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Routes in North Face
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Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Captain Fairview T R |
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Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Inverted Staircase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rumor Has It T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 11 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Higgins, Bob Kamps, Mike Irwin 9/1973 |
| Page Views: | 2,470 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Aug 16, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Background
The route was first attempted by early southern sierra slab masters Bob Kamps and Tom Higgins who completed the route up to the start of the traverse pitch in the late 1960’s. Higgins returned in 1973 with Mike Irwin. This route set a very high standard for face climbing style and difficulty in its day.
This route is really nice and one of the longest routes on Fairview. The route essentially follows the northwest nose of Fairview, climbing corners, flakes and cracks connected by runout face sections. An incredible full pitch face traverse right under the main roof allows escape to a bouldery crux face pitch and moderate climbing above to the U-shaped bowl and the summit.
All bolts on this route are excellent, recently replaced by the ASCA except the first one and one at the belay at the start of the traverse as of 2016.
This route is really nice and one of the longest routes on Fairview. The route essentially follows the northwest nose of Fairview, climbing corners, flakes and cracks connected by runout face sections. An incredible full pitch face traverse right under the main roof allows escape to a bouldery crux face pitch and moderate climbing above to the U-shaped bowl and the summit.
All bolts on this route are excellent, recently replaced by the ASCA except the first one and one at the belay at the start of the traverse as of 2016.
Description
P1: (5.10a R, 200’) Scramble up a large, low angle, left facing dihedral. Its dirty and has grass. As it steepens and splits, follow the thin lieback on the right straight up to a committing runout 5.10a on small knobs gains the first bolt. Climb right and up about 20 feet to another bolt, continue to an easy flake and the belay ledge on the left (bolt+pin+gear).
P2: (5.9+ R, 80’) Above the belay is a large roof that arches right, follow the crack just left, until it fades just left of and about 10 feet above the roof, good gear high, traverse left 5.9 to another crack, again with great pro. Traverse left again on small knobs (5.9+,R) to easier slab climbing and a belay ledge at a left facing corner (cams 0.5-2”). The Donny Reed guide shows a bolt on this pitch that was not there.
P3: (5.9, 220’) Follow the left facing corner above the belay to its end and face climb left (5.9) to a bolt. Face climb (5.9) above the bolt and continue face climbing straight up a seam/crack with 175’ of moderate 5.7/5.8 climbing. Belay just below the giant horizontal dike with a bolt and long sling on a flake. Done this way this pitch combines two of the original pitches.
P4: (5.9, 70’) Climb up to the dike and traverse right about 30 feet to a bolt. Slabby 5.9 steps lead past two more bolts and a large belay ledge below a giant right facing corner and the giant roof above (fixed nut and cams 0.5-2”). You could combine this and the next pitch but it’s a comfortable belay and rope drag is an issue.
P5: (5.9, 100’) Climb the beautiful right facing corner with some amazing liebacking, stemming, and underclinging and great gear as it arches right into a roof. Step down and right to a nice stance with an old belay bolt (old bolt, cams 0.5”-4”)
P6: (5.9+ R, 200’) On this traverse pitch, the leader and follower face multiple runnouts on short sections of 5.8/5.9 face and downclimbing, a couple times with some suspect gear behind loose flakes – an amazing, wild pitch of 5.9! From the belay with the old bolt, traverse right working up and right to gain the highest ledge below the roof (5.9), there is a great 3” cam here in the roof and a large flake to drop a sling on. From here, down climb right (5.8 face) to another series of ledges that are followed across, up and down short sections of 5.9, eventually reaching a bolt above a mantle onto a dike. A little past this, the roof ends in a giant dihedral, belay here at an amazing stance (cams 3”-4”).
P7: (5.8, 60’) Climb the large easy corner above until it is straight forward to exit left along another crack. Follow this and belay low (cams small to 1”) or at a belay ledge 10 feet higher with poor gear including a loose fixed pin.
P8: (5.10c, 220’) Hard face climbing above the ledge and a mantle gain the first bolt, harder crimps up and right reach the second bolt. Lieback up and left past a 5.8 move to reach meandering easy ledges, then an easy right facing dihedral to the U-shaped bowl ledge.
Move the belay – walk about 100 feet up and left on the ledge just past the start of easy scrambling.
P9 and P10 (5.8, 300’ total) Climb easy loose flakes (5.8) for about 70 feet to an easy left leaning ramp system. Continue to the summit 5.7.
P2: (5.9+ R, 80’) Above the belay is a large roof that arches right, follow the crack just left, until it fades just left of and about 10 feet above the roof, good gear high, traverse left 5.9 to another crack, again with great pro. Traverse left again on small knobs (5.9+,R) to easier slab climbing and a belay ledge at a left facing corner (cams 0.5-2”). The Donny Reed guide shows a bolt on this pitch that was not there.
P3: (5.9, 220’) Follow the left facing corner above the belay to its end and face climb left (5.9) to a bolt. Face climb (5.9) above the bolt and continue face climbing straight up a seam/crack with 175’ of moderate 5.7/5.8 climbing. Belay just below the giant horizontal dike with a bolt and long sling on a flake. Done this way this pitch combines two of the original pitches.
P4: (5.9, 70’) Climb up to the dike and traverse right about 30 feet to a bolt. Slabby 5.9 steps lead past two more bolts and a large belay ledge below a giant right facing corner and the giant roof above (fixed nut and cams 0.5-2”). You could combine this and the next pitch but it’s a comfortable belay and rope drag is an issue.
P5: (5.9, 100’) Climb the beautiful right facing corner with some amazing liebacking, stemming, and underclinging and great gear as it arches right into a roof. Step down and right to a nice stance with an old belay bolt (old bolt, cams 0.5”-4”)
P6: (5.9+ R, 200’) On this traverse pitch, the leader and follower face multiple runnouts on short sections of 5.8/5.9 face and downclimbing, a couple times with some suspect gear behind loose flakes – an amazing, wild pitch of 5.9! From the belay with the old bolt, traverse right working up and right to gain the highest ledge below the roof (5.9), there is a great 3” cam here in the roof and a large flake to drop a sling on. From here, down climb right (5.8 face) to another series of ledges that are followed across, up and down short sections of 5.9, eventually reaching a bolt above a mantle onto a dike. A little past this, the roof ends in a giant dihedral, belay here at an amazing stance (cams 3”-4”).
P7: (5.8, 60’) Climb the large easy corner above until it is straight forward to exit left along another crack. Follow this and belay low (cams small to 1”) or at a belay ledge 10 feet higher with poor gear including a loose fixed pin.
P8: (5.10c, 220’) Hard face climbing above the ledge and a mantle gain the first bolt, harder crimps up and right reach the second bolt. Lieback up and left past a 5.8 move to reach meandering easy ledges, then an easy right facing dihedral to the U-shaped bowl ledge.
Move the belay – walk about 100 feet up and left on the ledge just past the start of easy scrambling.
P9 and P10 (5.8, 300’ total) Climb easy loose flakes (5.8) for about 70 feet to an easy left leaning ramp system. Continue to the summit 5.7.
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