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Rock Climbing Photo: Chilly day on Shockley's
Id# 107877297, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By Russ Keane
Apr 2, 2015
Interesting, to clip those two pieces separately. Maybe better to combine and equalize into one?
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Jun 9, 2015
No Russ that would be a bad idea. I think it's usually a bad idea to combine protection while climbing, for several reasons:

- First, it's a pain in the ass compared to simply clipping them separately. It requires at least a double-length runner, and that still wouldn't be long enough in this case- If you do a Sliding X, you'd need to clip another runner to that, otherwise you'd have rope drag. And that rope drag makes the protection less secure (more likely for the cam to walk).

- More potential for failure- the single carabiner clipping the rope has more going on with a sliding X, and may be more prone to flipping around, cross-loading, or being unclipped (unless you use a locker). If that carabiner (or the sling) fails, both pieces are useless.

- Shock-loading- if either piece fails in a fall, the remaining piece will be shock-loaded. In this case, you'd also have a broken piton flying at high velocity towards you and your sling.. (shock loading could also happen when you clip separately, if the last piece fails, but at least then they are independant slings and carabiners. Besides in this case, the piton is much more likely to fail than the large cam above it)

In summary, combining placements is less secure, more difficult, makes rope drag worse, and uses additional gear (long slings and/or lockers). It only makes sense if you have two marginal pieces right next to each other.

Finally in this case he's using double ropes (half-rope configuration), so there's a benefit to clipping each rope separately, so they can both share some of the load in a fall.
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Chilly day on Shockley's

Submitted By: Tony Lopez on Nov 6, 2012
On this route:
Shockley's Ceiling (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b )
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Photo Of: Tony Lopez

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