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Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater
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Administrative Overreach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fortress of Xanadu, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tuscarora T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Cecil, Chris Tolin, John Rosholt - 1980's. |
| Page Views: | 2,758 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Marijuana is an excellent, clean route up the huge brown buttress to the left of Black Orpheus and to the right of the Black Arch Wall. Mostly following interesting corners, the climb is capped by two lovely, testy pitches. It is south facing and offers nice, sunny climbing perfect for a clear winter day. Approach as for Black Orpheus, but head left across the slabs (may require some exposed easy 5th class) and away from Black Orpheus to reach an indistinct weakness below the left side of the towering buttress above. You may arrive at a small, body-sized cave that is just left of the line and just to the right of a narrow ridge of rock that separates the Black Orpheus side of the amphitheater from the There and Back Again side. About 20' below this cave is a nice ledge and a single bolt which is a good place to begin.
P1: As for Tuscarora - depending on where you start, begin climbing up a corner and onto broken rock, working out left then back right underneath a steep wall, then continue just right of a vegetated right-facing corner to a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.5-5.8.
P2: Again, as for Tuscarora - climb up interesting features passing two bolts to a bolted anchor on a sloping ledge directly below the large roof. 5.10b, 100.
P3: Traverse right via an easy, but exposed move on a loose ledge system to a bolted anchor at the base of a short, steep corner. Low 5th class, 50'.
P4: Climb up a very steep left-facing corner passing two bolts to a bolted anchor on a ledge. 5.11, 50'.
P5: Head up a corner to the right (don't go straight up) and pull up with difficulty onto a long, leaning left-facing ramp system. There are several bolts and well-spaced but solid gear placements along this ramp - the very end of the system is steep, run out, and difficult, but the climbing is beautiful and face holds appear to ease the passage. End at a bolted anchor. 5.11d, 120'.
Rappel from here with a 70m rope, following the ramp back down (a leaver 'biner on one or two of the bolts will make this much easier). Alternatively, it is possible to continue up to the top of the formation via a huge right-facing corner system which faces Black Orpheus. This supposedly goes at 5.10a.
P1: As for Tuscarora - depending on where you start, begin climbing up a corner and onto broken rock, working out left then back right underneath a steep wall, then continue just right of a vegetated right-facing corner to a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.5-5.8.
P2: Again, as for Tuscarora - climb up interesting features passing two bolts to a bolted anchor on a sloping ledge directly below the large roof. 5.10b, 100.
P3: Traverse right via an easy, but exposed move on a loose ledge system to a bolted anchor at the base of a short, steep corner. Low 5th class, 50'.
P4: Climb up a very steep left-facing corner passing two bolts to a bolted anchor on a ledge. 5.11, 50'.
P5: Head up a corner to the right (don't go straight up) and pull up with difficulty onto a long, leaning left-facing ramp system. There are several bolts and well-spaced but solid gear placements along this ramp - the very end of the system is steep, run out, and difficult, but the climbing is beautiful and face holds appear to ease the passage. End at a bolted anchor. 5.11d, 120'.
Rappel from here with a 70m rope, following the ramp back down (a leaver 'biner on one or two of the bolts will make this much easier). Alternatively, it is possible to continue up to the top of the formation via a huge right-facing corner system which faces Black Orpheus. This supposedly goes at 5.10a.
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