New climber could use some friendly advice

The scarpa invernos are a perfectly capable boot for $300

Check out the dacks

JasonJNSmith wrote:Come to the Ice Fest: ourayicepark.com/

I'm there baby. I'm getting there a few days early to climb before it gets too crazy.

Michael C wrote:As far as boots, I bought the Scarpa Invernos last year (along with axes and crampons) as I had just started on ice the year before and was looking to get into it regularly. Price was definitely a factor. The boots are decent, but I think I would have rather bought more of a "performance" boot...the kind that look like hiking boots rather than heavy duty hard plastic boots. Obviously that shifts the price but for beginner boots bought with axes and crampons, I really can't complain.

I really agree with that. I'd only buy plastic if you can pick up a pair used and super cheap. Otherwise you'll just end up buying new leather boots later. I woudn't waste your money.

If you are going to spend lots of money on something, it should be boots. A good pair can last you a decade, saving you money and happiness in the long run. Also be sure that whatever pair of boots you get is specifically intended for technical ice, including super stiff sole, heel and toe welts (you can get away without the toe ones depending on your crampon type), etc.

Fit is the most crucial bit here. You want technical and glove-like without cutting off circulation. The only real way to tell if you have the "right fit" is to compare with a wide variety. Try on with the sock you think you're going to use, preferably one pair of thick mountaineering style socks.

Personally, I think pretty much everyone who isn't doing high altitude climbing should avoid plastics like the plague. Yeah, they're cheap, warm, and work. They're also bulky, are hard to adjust the fit, heavy, a pain in the ass to hike in, and are uncomfortable. If you cheap out and buy plastics, you'll almost certainly get something else later down the road. Go with purpose-made leather/synthetic.

The standard boot in the northeast is the La Sportiva Nepal Evo. Pretty much the BD c4 of boots. Everyone's got them. They do everything pretty damn well. Lots of room to fine-tune the fit and warmth. Should pretty much be your benchmark. There are sexier boots out there. You can spend more money and get ones that are better at pretty much everything, but these are standard for a good reason.

I'm also in DC and am starting to prepare for a Rainier climb next year. Although it looks like you've already got boots I'd highly recommend the Eastern Mountain Sports in Dulles. I was looking at ordering different sizes of boots online since I didn't know my size but found out that that EMS location has a decent stock of mountaineering boots. Nepal Evos, Spantiks, Baruntes, Mont Blancs, and a few plastics. Definitely a great resource to be able to try on before buying and the guy there told me it's the only place within a few hour radius that has that kinda thing. They also have several models of crampons and ice axes as well. The guy there also pointed me to Potomac Appalachian Trail Club Mountaineering Section (mentioned above) and I signed up for their list serve and as long as the season cooperates they have several planned ice climbing events. Finally, EarthTreks in Rockville has an indoor ice climbing evening planned in early December where you can practice on synthetic ice.

jduby wrote:Regarding colorado, b.c., or Washington, is it a friendly community in these places for newbies?

In Colorado, I suppose it depends on where you go and who you run into. Ice festivals are a very friendly environment for everyone, and they are so much fun. As far as people go, some are not friendly towards beginners (that may have been my young age when I started, too) and others are! Climbing areas are scattered through the state which requires flexibility, unless you go to Ouray. There are lots of climbing options in Ouray that are close.