Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Todd Swain ('92)
Page Views: 6,316 total · 30/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

5x lead protection bolts plus 2 bolt anchor set up for lowering.

From the ground, ascend 10 feet either in our outside the chimney to a ledge under the first bolt. 

Step across the gap and pull thin crux moves to a jug to clip the first bolt. This is reachy even for taller folks so bring a stick clip if desired.

Surmount the steepness and continue up the features on lighter colored rock. A wonderful but brief section of near-friction slab brings you to the anchor on a ledge.

If needed, there is a walk off from the top of the wall to the climbers right.

Location Suggest change

This is the route furthest to the right as you face the WNW side of the boulder. It begins on the varnished face at the obvious left-facing crescent.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts, and a runout to the top. Belay from the top of the boulder at a single bolt, or further back to the double bolt anchor (lots more rope drag).

Photos

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