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Poor Gym Testing

michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120

You're definitely an exception. I climbed in a gym before I climbed outside and most (all) of my climbing partners are the same way. And at least in the gym I work at 99.9% of people that come through don't have any interest in going outside; some don't even realize the correlation between gym climbing and real climbing. Something along the lines of "whoa, you climb outside? That must be really hard."

matt davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 25
RedRockRat wrote:So recently I went to a new climbing gym while visiting my lady in the flat lands and had to do a belay check with the gym staff. No big deal SOP. Ok it costs 3$ to do a belay check....still no big deal. Staffer informs me that our technique (which is the AAI, AMGA, IFMGA, PCI approved techniques) are improper and we will have to pay the 45$ to take a basic belay class to climb. Ok now its a deal not a big one yet but a deal. I explain the methods and reasoning behind our technique. Still not budging. Still not a big deal but damn frustrating manager time, manager says hes never seen anyone use the method we are demonstrating and has never heard of the AMGA or AAI which were my two examples. Ok fine we'll go bouldering. This gym seems to teach unsafe techniques as their mantra. What should one do? Was it just those two staffers or is the whole gym. Do I report unsafe behavior on such a large scale? Then who too? Its also the only gym or vertical rock within hours of my ladies home what is she supposed to do not climb for the next 3 months, build a home wall, just do endless pullups on a hang board?
The above is outrageous and unacceptable. It denigrates the very spirit of the sport.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
John Wilder wrote: bingo. which is why the AMGA stopped teaching it years ago. we're talking about belay certs at climbing gyms for people who have little/no belaying experience, not people who have been climbing for a decade or more and caught hundreds/thousands of falls. edit: and the sliding moment is a weak point for the pinch and slide, because the moment when your hand is above the device is the moment of least friction available. this is not to say its impossible to make a catch- its not, but again, with a panicing noob who has had little experience, its a damn dangerous moment.
Agree that up to the chin is terrible position. Masters of this method though, can manage rope with small movements that do not extend the arm up high. Waist to chest, small movements. I'm old school, but still teach noob's to PERFECT this method before allowing them to belay unassisted. yeah, it might take a few outings. To expect someone to master a technique in a 10 min. lesson is unreasonable, even with a grigri in use. Problem is that with the instant gratification of sport climbing and gyms, NOBODY seems patient enough to take the time to learn, master skills and proceed at a slower more responsible rate. Everyone wants to belay 5.l0 leads by their third outing on a rope. Hate to see that happening.
EvanH · · Boone, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10
Woodchuck ATC wrote:It's a well tested and trusted belay method that allows for complete rope management when using an ATC.
Not really. The pinch-n-slide method is a carryover from the days of Munter Hitch belaying. The Munter is in a brake position when the rope strands are parallel and moving in opposite directions (the "pinch" position), which allows for maximum friction when sliding your hand.

The more modern PBUS method of belaying was developed for plate and tube style devices where the braking plane is actually with the ropes parallel and moving in the same direction ( like this ). This method is by far safer and a better technique for any modern ATC-style device, and even for the GriGri (though PnS works for the GriGri).

PBUS, however, is definitely unsafe for belaying with the Munter.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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