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Am I headed for disaster?

Original Post
IronMan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 65

I started climbing in late July, and as of right now, I can routinely send V4, and I've done a V5 once..

1-2 times a week, I do a simple hangboard routine. I climb once a week usually on Sundays.

I've done this since late July.

Should I take a break?

Also, am I heading for a injury? Everything I've read says that I am moving a little fast.

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Yer gonna die fer sher!

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

People who boulder more than once a month usually die in their first year of climbing.

Reginald McChufferton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0
Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:People who boulder more than once a month usually die in their first year of climbing.
FACT
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Proven fact. Also clipping perma draws is a leasing cause of cancer.

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

I'm sorry, I didn't catch the question. I was distracted by all the spray in my face.

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

Muscles keep you from getting hurt. Lift weights, brah

Forestvonsinkafinger · · Iowa · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,090

Sounds like you need a project to focus your workout/rest routine. Your weekdays should build to a crescendo, and then rest a couple days before your weekend sends, then rest Monday.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

In the gym?

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

Tough crowd today Wilson - there is some good advice in between the smart ass comments though. Take it slow, finger/elbow injuries suck.

Tits McGee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 260

I started climbing earlier this morning and now boulder V12. I have since developed sores all over my shirtless body. The only place they aren't appearing is under my beanie. Am I going to get worse when I crank V14 later this afternoon?

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360

Sounds more like you are headed to V10!
I am jealous, we all are, take it with a grain of salt... took my big arse a long time to plateau at v4.

Rest days are your friend, go for a hike.

Chufftard and Tits, thanks for the good laughs, always some thoughtful stuff!

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

and don't forget, every time you tick a pebble, God kills a puppy

Bolting Karen · · La Sal, UT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 56

just realized we need a share function on mountain project

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Forestvonsinkafinger wrote:Sounds like you need a project to focus your workout/rest routine. Your weekdays should build to a crescendo, and then rest a couple days before your weekend sends, then rest Monday.
So, when you say "weekdays should build to a crescendo", you mean Tuesday and Wednesday?
Alex Quitiquit · · Salt Lake City · Joined May 2011 · Points: 195

You're most likely gonna die.

but seriously you actually aren't progessing that quickly in comparison to other youngin's I've seen these days. I've watched kids at the gym climb V3 their first week and by the time they get on problems outside, probably a month after they start, they are routinely sending and projecting V5 and above. They do train on hangboards routinely and some of them are now doing laps on campus rungs...

But alas, a few of them have royally f-ed themselves with injuries.

The trick I suppose is being in tune with your own body, clearly easier said then done, and WARMING UP! I heard more tendons pop watching my friends go for it not being sufficiently warm.

I used to boulder, then, like all of us, we had to grow up... pulled that beanie off my head, put my shirt back on and bought a rack of cams and have lost my f-ing mind.

Greg Springer · · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20

Not sure why you're climbing on the Sabbath, but you should probably chill on that

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
chufftard wrote:go do a 5.6 in the Gunks, then get back to us on how awesome you are.
OMG Gunkz Five Six = Euro 9a!!!111
Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85

Dear Thread,

Thank you.

-Dank

D F · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 406

Take it easy, guys. I think the OP's question was in response to a recent Coache's Corner in Rock and Ice, which detailed advice for hangboard workouts and basically said to wait until after a full year or two of only bouldering before using a hangboard at all.

Wilson, in response to your question, I think the mag gave good advice. I pretty much lost a season when I was 23 due to hangboarding too obsessively when I had never bouldered much and thus didn't have the base strength built up to handle the intensity of 'board training.

T Howes · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

OP, be careful. Listen to your body and try not to push it too hard. You're less likely to injure yourself if you stick to routes/problems that allow open hand movement, meaning slopers instead of crimps.

I had similar performance in my first year of climbing and ended up injuring myself. It forced me to slow down and I still don't boulder any harder than I did 7 years ago.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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