RELOCATING TO TRUCKEE- CLIMBER ADVICE

I am potentially moving to Truckee and would appreciate info on access to climbing(obviously rock everywhere-curious about 1 to 2 day weekend warrior access from Truckee area)?, Seasonality, how much of the time are the local areas unclimbable?

your experience/advice appreciated!

Hi Amy,

For a weekend warrior type, the answer to your question will somewhat depend on how motivated you are (i.e. how far are you willing to drive on the weekend during the winter). The prime rock season in northern CA is very long, basically from May until November or December (dependent on when it starts snowing). During prime season, Truckee is within striking distance of a vast amount of amazing rock and there are many guidebooks that are available to help you. During the winter months, you can still climb at lower elevation places on either side of the Sierra. On the eastside of the Sierra, you will be heading to Woodford Canyon (search for it here on MP) or further south towards Bishop (google "Maximus Press" for books). On the westside of the Sierra, you primarily will be climbing sport at the Sonora area crags (Gold Wall, Far Side, Jailhouse). You can also climb at Sugarloaf all winter long (look in the books or here on MP). Calaveras Dome is nearby and that can have a long season as well (look for it here on MP). In addition, there are some areas in Nevada that might be worth looking into, but I don't know squat about them. If Colonel Mustard is lurking about on MP, he can probably chime in with some info about Nevada.

I have linked you to several different posts that will likely be helpful to you as well.

Guide book info:

Tahoe books:
mountainproject.com/v/best-…

New Tahoe book:
mountainproject.com/v/new-n…

Sierra eastside books:
maximuspress.com/

For the Sonora area, the Jailhouse is covered in Jimmy Thornburg's new book, see here:
jimthornburg.com/bay-area-r…

For the Far Side and the Grotto, Brad Young will have a new book coming out in the next year that covers all Sonora areas (or get a hold of his old book, which is out of print....also try googling "sonora pass climbing" because they have some info on the Far Side available online). The Gold Wall is not in any books because access problems...just get to know a local and it will be no big deal to get info.

Misc. info:

mountainproject.com/v/movin…

mountainproject.com/v/sport…

mountainproject.com/v/movin…

mountainproject.com/v/lake-…

If you like living in Bend, you'll like Truckee even more. Im 10 minutes from all of the Donner climbing areas (Snowshead, Grause, Blackwall) and about 30 minutes from some sport climbing (Big Chief). There is bouldering scattered everywhere. 45 minutes to an hour away an you are at Lover's Leap, which is awesome. Most of these places are pretty much a no go from December-April. You can drive a bit over an hour to Sugarloaf during the Winter. Also, Yosemite is 3-4 hours away. I love Truckee, but I'm also a big snow person.

Donner's rad Amy! I lived there for 15 years and you'll break out of the 'weekend warrior' pattern quickly.

Donner State park's loaded with boulders that you can hit right after work. The Summit's not more than 5 minutes away and better in the afternoon than the heat of day anyway.

You'll love it.

Climb on!

K.

Truckee is amazing, best place I've ever lived. Super jealous of you!

THERE IS A LOT TO CLIMB TAKE A LOOK AT THE MAP THERE IS THIS RANGE CALLED THE SIERRA NEVADA ITS REALLY CLOSE.

mountainproject.com/v/north…