Equalette Top - Belay Masterpoint Question... help?
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Ive used the equalette many times as a TR but have never thought of using it for multi-pitch. I have came across an issue. This may be a silly question and im just not thinking clearly but if the master point is 2 carabiners through both seperate strands, for top - belay do i tie in to that master point with a fig 8 and re-direct my rope through another two carabiners? Do i redirect Through the same two? (i dnt like runnin it like that w the friction) Its obvious i couldnt use my direct belay because an atc guide doesnt have enough room for two carabiners to fit through that little hole. Do i tie in somewhere else? At one of the legs and back it up? Tree? |
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I'm not sure I 100% understand your question, but this is how I would do it. I use a cordalette or the rope, but once the master point is established, it's all the same. |
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What is it about MP that encourages these types of questions? |
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ChaseLeoncini wrote:Ive used the equalette many times as a TR but have never thought of using it for multi-pitch. I have came across an issue. This may be a silly question and im just not thinking clearly but if the master point is 2 carabiners through both seperate strands, for top - belay do i tie in to that master point with a fig 8 and re-direct my rope through another two carabiners? Do i redirect Through the same two? (i dnt like runnin it like that w the friction) Its obvious i couldnt use my direct belay because an atc guide doesnt have enough room for two carabiners to fit through that little hole. Do i tie in somewhere else? At one of the legs and back it up? Tree? May be silly but id still like to know what others are doing. (PS im fully aware there are other anchors to use and could use another but id like to know about this one. I suppose i could always go in-direct as well but...) Thanks in advance! :)You tie into the two karabiners. You redirect through a single karabiner clipped into the two biners. More sensibly you dump the equalette concept by tying a masterpoint in it and continue as the previous posters said. |
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@jimtitt |
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I don't really see any know it alls. The equalette probably isn't the best choice for this scenario, and a big part of climbing is knowing tons of tricks because there are a million different situations and no right answer. Second, eight on a bight is okay, but I much prefer a clove hitch. |
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ChaseLeoncini wrote:To the rest, **** ***.I didn't know there were gibronis hardcore on the west coast. Thanks for the new information. |
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Like I said it's probably not the answer you were hoping for. You even tried to qualify the answers you got in your OP. Sorry the real world didn't turn out the way you had it worked out in your head. |
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you could use just one locker to tie in and another to belay off the anchor with an auto locking device, and put them on a magic x on the 2 strands between the knots which comprise the master point on the equalette. |
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We talked about the equallette a bit in this forum post, and I slapped some pictures on there. Take a look at this picture: |
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Equalette Masterpoint
The photo above is from a trusted climbing rescue website. I have difficulty clove hitching these at the same time so i use a fig 8. Sliding Equalizer To the person who posted the photo, with all due respect, i believe that is a sliding equalizer not an equalette and I do own JL's books and if i recall he says this method is great too but does not equalize quite as well and creates more friction. I might have to reread though its been a while. To everyone else, i know that situations vary along anchor stations and it is ideal to have many different methods to do so. I just want to add this to the bag of tricks. Thanks everyone tho for the help. :) |
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What is a Equalette???? |
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"To the person who posted the photo, with all due respect, i believe that is a sliding equalizer not an equalette and I do own JL's books and if i recall he says this method is great too but does not equalize quite as well and creates more friction. I might have to reread though its been a while."
With all due respect Chase...find a partner that knows what they're doing. You obviously have not been able to comprehend the information from JL's book and your habit of continually insisting that the answers you're getting are wrong, shows you don't really have a clue. Incidentally, Mr. Long has changed his tune a bit in regards to how wonderful the Equallette is since several people have tested it and found that it doesn't always perform as advertised. Never hurts knowing some of these techniques given that you understand their uses and limitations but this particular anchor method seems to be a bit difficult for you to grasp. That photo most certainly IS an equallette. It does not require two lockers at the master point. There are probably about a million pages on the internet dedicated to this question and the myriad ways of rigging with an equallette. Google is your friend. Anyway...just use the rope. |
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ChaseLeoncini wrote: do i tie in to that master point with a fig 8 ChaseLeoncini wrote: I have difficulty clove hitching these at the same time so i use a fig 8.Chase, Get more comfortable with the clove hitch. Learn to tie it one handed. Practice. It sounds like you are relying too much on the fig 8 on a bight. The clove is faster. More importantly, it makes adjusting lengths easy, so you can better position yourself and equalize your anchor, which is ultimately safer. |
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Hard for me to grasp? idk what it is about people in the safety of their own home can sit in their chair n spit some really rude **** when someone just wants to learn somethin. |
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ChaseLeoncini wrote:I still say its an equalizer. Youre basically making an extended sliding x. Equalette has a diff concept.Really. Please elaborate on how two limiter knots in the middle of a cord about 10 inches apart creating a masterpoint that is clipped with a biner is NOT an equalette. Then please define for the rest of us idiots on here what exactly IS an equallette according to you. Thanks. |
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Reginald McChufferton wrote: Really. Please elaborate on how two limiter knots in the middle of a cord about 10 inches apart creating a masterpoint that is clipped with a biner is NOT an equalette. Then please define for the rest of us idiots on here what exactly IS an equallette according to you. Thanks.Yeah, this is true. The part of the setup that makes it an equalette is equalizing the 2-4 pieces with cloves in the loops above the limiting knots, not really what goes on at the master point. Whether you clip two lockers in, one to each strand, or clip a single locker into a sliding-x, it still dynamically equalizes the pieces cloved above. The only difference is the sliding-x allows you to be redundant at that point with only a single biner. I'm personally not really a fan of the setup in general, and prefer to use a standard, statically equalized cordalette or the rope, its not bad if you know how to rig it quickly and safely. Chase, don't let people get to you too much on here...it's just the way shit is on any forum, ya know. Glad you're thinking about the rope systems (that's the first step) but it is easy to get caught up in less important technicalities when you first start moving away from the simplicity of sport climbing. I'm sure once you get more mileage in, you'll develop personal preferences and get comfortable with your own system. Next time I'm back in SD, maybe we can get some laps in at mission gorge. :) |
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@chrisnorwood |
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The sliding X method can be used effectively with a single caribiner if you tie your equalette with one of the strands just a bit longer than the other so that they are both basically the same length when one has a twist and one does not. JLs anchor book does briefly talk about this and I can tell you it does work well. |
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I use equalettes, they work well. I don't redirect belays though. I belay the second from me straight down. I don't like the clutter that redirects create at the anchor. |
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I actually just read the lastest edition of John Long's Anchors book, and I can inform you that it is possible to clip into the equalette with a single locker--twist one strand of the master point to create a sliding X. He describes this in the book as an alternative to the "one locker per strand" method. |