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Trad draws

Original Post
Dgillis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

So im getting ready to invest in some new extendable trad draws. Double wiregates or str8 gate and wiregate...why?

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

Why don't you experiment a little and get back to us on that?

Dgillis wrote:...str8 gate...
On second thought, you'll probably fit in the bouldering scene a little better.
Forestvonsinkafinger · · Iowa · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,090

Perhaps what our friend is intending to imply is that perhaps you should follow at least 10 trad lines with multiple partners and lead a few with a partner and perhaps then you will know what you want in a trad draw.

I just use a few sport draws (3 short 3 long) and a few runners rambo style over my shoulders with a few extra biners on the belt.

But if you really want to be economical and gain some tout while you are at it. Make your pro out of knotted webbing and rope. These will have integrated draws and cost about $2 per.

Dom Caron · · Welsford, New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,370

Bd dynex 60 cm with New snag free BD oz on the pro end and BD hoodwire on the rope end.
Bam, great draw!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

doesnt really matter ... i do however keep at least 2 solid gates somewhere to make a biner brake if needed ... its a good skill to have ;)

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I use wire gates but I think it is just because I have so many. I don't find that there is any reason not to use them. A notchless nose is nice so the webbing doesn't get stuck in the notch. But in general I don't like using the extenders because cleaning/re-racking them is slower.

I find that a combo of double ropes, slings over the shoulder and sport draws eliminates the need for more than a couple of "trad draws." You may find that you agree, but you'll need to climb a bit first and make your own decision.

Dgillis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0
Marc H wrote:Why don't you experiment a little and get back to us on that? On second thought, you'll probably fit in the bouldering scene a little better.
Or you could just bite me. Ive been bouldering twice in my life and climbing off and on for 22 years. There were no wire gates when i started leading trad and after a taking an extended hiatus from climbing to have 3 kids, paddle and mtb. Im rebuilding my rack with some updated gear. When clipping bolts i prefer a solid gate on one end of the draw. I was seeking some feedback on if there was some drawback to having wiregates on both ends of the draw that i was overlooking. Please forgive me if i violated your ethos by abreviating while firing off a quick question from my ipad which is a pita to type on.
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

Dunno, man, I rock mostly wiregates on my trad draws. No drawbacks I've run into. A few solid gates too. Honestly, my biners migrate between cams, draws, sport draws, and what have you.

I do like the Wild Country Helium wire gates best though. They are essentially notchless, full-sized yet light, and pure sexy in cold forged metal form. And, no, I don't work for Wild Country.

Dgillis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0
Ryan Williams wrote:I use wire gates but I think it is just because I have so many. I don't find that there is any reason not to use them. A notchless nose is nice so the webbing doesn't get stuck in the notch. But in general I don't like using the extenders because cleaning/re-racking them is slower. I find that a combo of double ropes, slings over the shoulder and sport draws eliminates the need for more than a couple of "trad draws." You may find that you agree, but you'll need to climb a bit first and make your own decision.
I agree on the nothchless nose. Ive done plenty of leading and following, but am coming back after some extended time off and rethinking some of my previous assumptions about the best way to do things in the light of "new" gear advancements. Never stop learning right? Anyway. Thanks to those that left constructive feedback.
Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
Dgillis wrote: Or you could just bite me. Ive been bouldering twice in my life and climbing off and on for 22 years. There were no wire gates when i started leading trad and after a taking an extended hiatus from climbing to have 3 kids, paddle and mtb. Im rebuilding my rack with some updated gear. When clipping bolts i prefer a solid gate on one end of the draw. I was seeking some feedback on if there was some drawback to having wiregates on both ends of the draw that i was overlooking. Please forgive me if i violated your ethos by abreviating while firing off a quick question from my ipad which is a pita to type on.
Haha. That's awesome.

I use wireg8s on both ends of my extendables. Then it can never really be "upside down" if that makes any. I haven't come across any situations where it has been a disadvantage. Though notch-less biners are nice I have to admit. A couple companies are making notch-less wireg8s that you might want to look into.
Dgillis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

That was what i had been thinking. Leaning that way myself.

richie Janow · · englewood, tn · Joined May 2010 · Points: 35

I use wire gates on both ends and have never had a problem. I use mostly over the shoulder for cams that already have a biner on them but carry extendable draws with wire gates on both ends for nuts and tri cams.

ARowland Rowland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 20
richie wrote:I use wire gates on both ends and have never had a problem. I use mostly over the shoulder for cams that already have a biner on them but carry extendable draws with wire gates on both ends for nuts and tri cams.
This. I've been using the madrock wiregates and 10mm BD slings for this and it works just fine. Not that I have a whole lot of experience with other setups, but I haven't had any problems with it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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