Eldo sucks AKA the crag blasphemer's thread

Nick Stayner wrote:Is that why people from Boulder always wind up in Tensleep :) ? But seriously... rock climbing is such a diverse sport with so many unique experiences to be had. Each crag has something to offer. In that sense, i've never visited a crag I didn't like.

I've climbed in many areas in the west and I've never found one I didn't like either. That said, they are all falling apart, Eldo has a special place in my heart and I continue to climb there every chance I get, even weekends if that's all I can get.

Eldo is world class... on top of that, one of a kind!!

I agree with Milt. Eldo is world class!

willeslinger wrote:I don't particularly love Eldorado Canyon SP, but most of my friends think it's pretty much the greatest climbing area of all time ever to have sprung out of the earth's crust. What's that area for you? The ultra classic place to climb that you feel bashful for even slightly disparaging, but in your heart of hearts you just don't absolutely love.

For anyone who thinks that "Eldo sucks", I would be very interested in seeing a ticklist of the routes you've climbed in Eldo to bring you to this conclusion. Care to share?

Whale's Tail, East Slab -- Yeah Baby!

Kenan wrote: For anyone who thinks that "Eldo sucks", I would be very interested in seeing a ticklist of the routes you've climbed in Eldo to bring you to this conclusion. Care to share?

What ticklist would be awesome enough to justify them having an opinion about your crag?

Not every crag is for everybody. It's purely subjective. One less person in line ahead of you.

I have no opinion on Eldo, never been.

Milt and Hacky are high. Eldo is a pile of broken rocks.

Colonel Mustard wrote: What ticklist would be awesome enough to justify them having an opinion about your crag? Not every crag is for everybody. It's purely subjective. One less person in line ahead of you. I have no opinion on Eldo, never been.

I'm not claiming that a certain ticklist is required to justify anyone's opinion. And I'm all in favor of more people thinking that Eldo sucks and telling that to all of their buddies! I'm just quite curious to see what routes brought someone to this conclusion. It helps to give context to understand the opinion. If you climb all of the highest rated routes at a particular crag over a period of time and then formulate an opinion like this, it means something quite different than if you climb one or two routes (maybe on a bad day) and formulate this opinion. Wouldn't you agree?

I really couldn't care less who likes or dislikes Eldo. I'm just fascinated by the opinion and want more context.

Kenan wrote: I'm not claiming that a certain ticklist is required to justify anyone's opinion. And I'm all in favor of more people thinking that Eldo sucks and telling that to all of their buddies! I'm just quite curious to see what routes brought someone to this conclusion. It helps to give context to understand the opinion. If you climb all of the highest rated routes at a particular crag over a period of time and then formulate an opinion like this, it means something quite different than if you climb one or two routes (maybe on a bad day) and formulate this opinion. Wouldn't you agree? I really couldn't care less who likes or dislikes Eldo. I'm just fascinated by the opinion and want more context.

If you don't initially like the climbing, why would you compile a comprehensive tick list there? Personally, I don't waste my time in areas I don't like. Sounds like an exercise in masochism!

CaptainPoopyPants wrote:frankstoneline: "this statement really illustrated your ignorance. The northwest is nothing but some hardened mud with holds molded by spandex and hammer and piles of stones rapidly succumbing to the temptations of gravity. Also rain" yes there is rain....but what about Leavenworth....and the lederhosen?

Oh Leavenworth is sweet. If you like near vertical hiking to climb one good pitch and then do a bunch of shite 'cause we're already here I guess'. Also the tourism in that town is horrid. You can't buy groceries without wishing you were dead by a lederhosen noose.

Colonel Mustard wrote: If you don't initially like the climbing, why would you compile a comprehensive tick list there?

You wouldn't - and that's exactly the point! Maybe someone climbed an obscure chosspile or two and decided to never go back. Maybe they ran across a clan of douchebags that ruined their day. Maybe they were actually on an uber-classic route but got off route or stormed off and it put them in a foul mood. Maybe they went to an area that had a great reputation for overhanging sport routes and climbed a vertical trad route and decided that the area sucks. Or maybe they actually put in multiple days climbing highly-rated routes at that area and decided it actually sucks - for their taste, their style of climbing, their style of rock, ...whatever. It's that last scenario that I would actually find the most interesting in the case of Eldo. So I'm trying to tease it out.

Is anyone's opinion that Eldo sucks based on a substantial amount of climbing highly-rated routes there? If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all.

It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING

Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah

Kenan wrote:If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all. It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah

If you find it fascinating, go for it. It proves nothing either way, although knowing the qualifications of an opinion is useful.

The most I've climbed at a place I've been the least impressed by is Red Rocks. I've ticked a few of the trad classics, I just don't like it. I actually liked the sport climbing Killis disparages there much better! It really makes no sense, the place has all the food groups I normally like, it's just a gut feeling of dislike, or maybe ambivalence.

I would still go there to tick a few of the "undisputed" classics to test once and for all if the place "sucks". But I'm not chomping at the bit for that exercise, there are so many other places I absolutely love.

"Where's the good stone!?!"
-J. Bachar, after his first day at Eldo.

All I can say about Eldo is that I'm really fortunate to have done most of my climbing there back in the late '60s.

I have to disagree with Tony--Devil's Lake is a gem with the best rock on the planet--it just takes some getting used to.

Eldo isnt even granite how could it be world class?!

mozeman wrote:Eldo isnt even granite how could it be world class?!

All this time, I've been trying to articulate my feelings. There it is, right there.

In all seriousness, every time I go to Eldo, I've gotten on either the routes I learned to lead on, or a 4-star easy classic. And every time, I've encountered either a lot of loose rock, or the route has drastically changed since I last climbed it because of loose rock. I did Calypso maybe a week before that flake fell off, and then about 4 years after the fact. I got to very delicately climb around microwave sized blocks on Gambit. And I climbed the Bastille Crack, which is every bit as good as people say it is. If "4 stars" means "still might kill you on the road" at a suburban crag, you might need to re-evaluate how you hand out stars. These consistent experiences have driven me away from continuing to explore Eldo. I'll take Lumpy any day of the week over that. The reason I hate Eldo is that trying to find people who want to climb at Lumpy, or the Splatte was flippin' impossible because "Eldo is sooo much better". Its not. Its convenient, but if I only have one full day off a week, I'm going to spend it doing something awesome, not, well, Eldo.

Of course, I don't live in south Denver anymore, so the point is moot. Eldo is definitely Boulder's best crag. But it isn't even the best crag in the Front Range.

I haven't been to a location where I couldn't find some climbing to enjoy..

HAHHAHA.. this is awesome. Love seeing all the people who are so much on either side of the fence. Eldo definitely rocks. There are some amazing lines at every grade and a super cool setting with a ton of history (and obviously drama as well). Is it world class, no. Probably some world class routes but come on people world class would have to mean its the best of kind for rock and style.... its just not. But it is super fun and very conveniently located. Enjoy

^Salt Lake City? I'll take the Wasatch over Eldo any day of the week.

Ed Wright wrote: I have to disagree with Tony--Devil's Lake is a gem with the best rock on the planet--it just takes some getting used to.

Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin...
Yep, I climbed there for years.