Dangerous Fiasco on Alexander's Chimney Tuesday

Ed Rhine wrote:On an alpine climb starting 20 ft to the left does not really mean you are off route and either way you belayed on the route. If you are there first... its your route. Really the way it is and should be. Those other people can wake up earlier or get in better shape for the approach if you beat them. There is no excuse for this type of crap. It would be like clipping someone elses gear on a rock route... you just dont do it. Lucky for them, you were polite.

Bullshit. If I run myself into the ground to get to a route before you, have no energy left to lead the route efficiently, and tell you I was there first so the route is mine, you would be alright with that?

Noah8000 wrote: As far as I'm concerned, harden up and go do something else or go home. Flying Dutchman is in well. There's a moderate option. Notch is in, another option. North Chimney is climbable. That's M4 as well. Go find a new variation or go explore. Fields....etc....No excuses here except being elitist and expecting everyone to move out of your way. This isn't Yosemite.

Yeah, just jog on up to the Notch!? The Notch is a LOT further, and Fields is a good deal harder. Have you been on these routes?

Rowdy Wrangellian wrote:Nick, if you don't like regulations then maybe you shouldn't be a paramedic. Providing a registration board/book is another resource for us climbers to make our journey into the mountains more enjoyable and safer, it can provide info on what routes people are on and the conditions that they encountered. I was bummed to see the Longs Peak TH registration book in shambles with pages missing and torn out. Christian had the right of way being the first ones leading up the climb. If you want the route to your self just start kicking down chunks of ice and rock to scare them off!

I agree with you. My job sucks too btw :) but it affords me the ability to climb so I deal.

Jeff-- thats a bit different...and it does not sound like that was the case. They could have both been sprinting to get there but someone was still there first and climbing first and another party chose to continue to climb.... on a mixed route. No kosher in my book but go right ahead.

Jeff Kent wrote: Yeah, just jog on up to the Notch!? The Notch is a LOT further, and Fields is a good deal harder. Have you been on these routes?

So let's just get lazy and go home..Isn't the Notch like a Grade V??..Notch isn't ALOT farther....There was even a trail broken all the way accross Broadway when they were up there and up Lambs Slide. My point is there are no excuses for there actions. Don't want this to turn into anyone spraying what routes they've done. That's not what matters. Rather it's how we treat each other in the mountains. Communication and respect.

Noah8000 wrote: So let's just get lazy and go home..Isn't the Notch like a Grade V??..Notch isn't ALOT farther....There was even a trail broken all the way accross Broadway when they were up there and up Lambs Slide. My point is there are no excuses for there actions. Don't want this to turn into anyone spraying what routes they've done. That's not what matters. Rather it's how we treat each other in the mountains. Communication and respect.

I don't climb ice, but can safely say that if someone pulled this crap on me while rock climbing a multi-pitch, even a sport route, I'd be super pissed. I imagine that the danger involved with a situation like this on ice is amplified ten fold, and therefore I'd probably be ten times more pissed & concerned with my safety.

There is no reason that "fitter" or "faster" climbers should ever feel entitled to lap & climb over another party without first communicating their intentions and making sure everyone was OK with that plan. Safety first. That usually goes without saying. Or used to anyhow.

Sounds like Christian was on an established variation and was within his rights to post this. I feel like it's justified. Assuming that everything he has described is accurate.

Noah8000 wrote: So let's just get lazy and go home..Isn't the Notch like a Grade V??..Notch isn't ALOT farther....There was even a trail broken all the way accross Broadway when they were up there and up Lambs Slide. My point is there are no excuses for there actions. Don't want this to turn into anyone spraying what routes they've done. That's not what matters. Rather it's how we treat each other in the mountains. Communication and respect.

No. The Notch is a LOT further. Go do it, then say it's in the same ballpark as Alexanders. Go do Fields and say it's as easy as Alexanders.

Noah8000 wrote: Here we go, "It's in the same ballpark" but easier/less climbing and a little more slogging then AC. It took 15 minutes from the yellow bowl/top of AC to get to base of the Notch a week ago. That doesn't seem LOT farther to me. At least in my definition. To each his own. Never said Fields was easier. It was an option for them as I know both parties that were there that day....

It took you 15 minutes from the TOP of Alexanders to get to the Notch. If you were planning on climbing on the Diagonal Wall, getting to Broadway is a big change in your game plan. Whatever man.

Welcome to Colorado, combat climbing at it's finest. You better be fit, fast and competent or get trundled. LOL!

I guess all that gym climbing hasn't done Jeff Kent any good. Now he's crying over longer approaches and being out of shape. Hard to please these elitest climbers.

dfrancom wrote:I guess all that gym climbing hasn't done Jeff Kent any good. Now he's crying over longer approaches and being out of shape. Hard to please these elitest climbers.

Easy Diaphragm, easy:) Get yourself out of your little junky bubble in Rock Springs and go climbing. I've been up Longs more times than you can count. Yes, more than ten. Next time I'm at Subway at Little America I'll give you and your sis a shout.

Did you leave them a note on their car?

Ooooh, too soon? ;)

Jon Zucco wrote: I don't climb ice, but can safely say that if someone pulled this crap on me while rock climbing a multi-pitch, even a sport route, I'd be super pissed.

Do not ever come to my continent. You will not understand it.

If you are the true YETI then how do you say..."using taped hands is like using condoms, it takes away from the experience" in your native tongue?
I hope I didn't just mouth off to the OG Yeti.

Lets keep a cool head here folks. We've probably all experienced both sides of this issue before, I know I have. I've been the slow one, who felt bad about holding up others, and I've been stuck behind slower parties and froze my ass off.

Nowadays I go in with a plan B and plan C just in case, and things are much less stressful. There are plenty of options up there, some easier some harder. Instead of bashing each other, look for opportunities to learn from experiences. Its not about right or wrong. that goes to both parties.

Christian Mason wrote:...We encountered a party of three at the parking lot and arrived at the base around 30-45 minutes before then. ...We were then passed by the same party (that was not moving faster than us)...

Ignoring who was wrong and who was right for a moment, I just want to reiterate Jeff Kent's original response.

If you got to the climb first (by 30 to 45 minutes!), then it is mathematically impossible for the other party to pass you unless they are climbing faster than you.

Reinhold Messner wrote: Do not ever come to my continent. You will not understand it.

haha, I've already been, unless you're referring to Antarctica, which you aren't.

I just don't think that shit is safe. Pisses me off that people knowingly endanger others' lives in that way. Competitive climbing is one thing, but Jesus. Get real. Ethics man. And not only that, but morals too.

Reinhold Messner wrote: Do not ever come to my continent. You will not understand it.

Reinhold, congratulations for joining MP today. You'll probably learn a lot here. You are my hero. Even if you're not the Reinhold Messner.

I am a bit late to this as I was out CLIMBING this weekend.

To the OP, after reading your account I agree that passing another group in an "ice funnel" is dumb, unsafe and very very uncool. However, just because he nailed you with a sick burn, "This is a national park," which I am assuming is the douche bag climber equivalent of "This is a free country," doesn't mean you should post the account on MP. Most of us know that is totally unacceptable to boot up some one's kicked in steps to race them to the route and try to pass them on it.

Man up. Cut their rope, spit in their face and handle your business like a man. If you can handle Alexander's Chimney, you can probably handle some random douche that cuts in line in the alpine.

Sincerely,
Tits McGee
Internet Hardman

John Marsella wrote:Ice climbing season in Canada is just around the corner.

Can someone please link me to the original source of this long-running joke?! I've seen it referenced so many times and want so badly to laugh along, but just have no idea where it came from!