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Routes in Lower Buttress
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A Boy and His Arête T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bear Hug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Black Opal T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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For Real Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pillar of Society S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Surrealistic Direct Knob Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Harrison, Jay Smith |
| Page Views: | 1,694 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Nov 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Wild Turkey! The last time I had a shot of this stuff I kept it down for about 30 second before the cauldron of my stomach boiled over and I filled a nearby pint glass with a foul brew.
Chances are if you're looking at this route on mp.com you've wandered by the lower buttress, seen those two pink poot slings hanging off that old pin and wondered 'what is that thing?' That thing is the seldom repeated Wild Turkey. Located just uphill from the much smoother Crown Royal is a shallow corner with the pin about 25' up.
Start up the dike face just right of the corner before working over left. Continue up to the pin and take a good at it before you push your chips into the pot. Look up... that giant knob is close... so close.
Attack the roof, gain the knob and pull up. By the way, that move is not 5.8. Continue up and get established on the dikey slab headwall above. Wind your way up, brushing lichen from dikes. At some point falling will not be an option. Eventually you will gain a series of right facing flakes which take some gear. Right below a large dike the third flake is a good spot to belay and takes a couple hand size cams, about 150' up.
The second pitch continues up easy runout face.
Rick Sumner's old green Tahoe Rock guide says this about the route: "Rack: webbing slings and one 2 1/2 chock. Climb up a groove to the right side of a large ceiling; then traverse left along the celing's lip until possible to face climb up left to a horn. Continue until out of rope, then belay. This route has less than marginal protection."
Chances are if you're looking at this route on mp.com you've wandered by the lower buttress, seen those two pink poot slings hanging off that old pin and wondered 'what is that thing?' That thing is the seldom repeated Wild Turkey. Located just uphill from the much smoother Crown Royal is a shallow corner with the pin about 25' up.
Start up the dike face just right of the corner before working over left. Continue up to the pin and take a good at it before you push your chips into the pot. Look up... that giant knob is close... so close.
Attack the roof, gain the knob and pull up. By the way, that move is not 5.8. Continue up and get established on the dikey slab headwall above. Wind your way up, brushing lichen from dikes. At some point falling will not be an option. Eventually you will gain a series of right facing flakes which take some gear. Right below a large dike the third flake is a good spot to belay and takes a couple hand size cams, about 150' up.
The second pitch continues up easy runout face.
Rick Sumner's old green Tahoe Rock guide says this about the route: "Rack: webbing slings and one 2 1/2 chock. Climb up a groove to the right side of a large ceiling; then traverse left along the celing's lip until possible to face climb up left to a horn. Continue until out of rope, then belay. This route has less than marginal protection."
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