Favorite New England Climbs?

As far as the routes mentione
recompense is ONLY worth it with the beast variation
Moby grape is OK hardly a classic - 100' of good climbing
The VMC direct direct is by miles, the best route on Cannon.

The fact is that 5.11 is the grade for NH.. sport or trad

For sport in NH, I think you would want to include 12 and 13 or you will miss an awful lot of classics, especially at Rumney, even 14 there.

If you are coming for a visit, get Ward Smith's latest Rumney guide and Jerry Handren's brand new "North Conway Rock Climbs" for NH. Jerry's book will get you drooling for all kinds of routes you probably haven't heard of previously even if you climbed here 25 years. Shell Pond in Maine looks really good for a sport area I haven't been to yet. The new Vermont guide opened my eyes too even though I haven't been able to pick up a copy yet.

Yes, the best routes keep coming up, some of the ones I've enjoyed most:
5.12 Technosurfing, Giant Man, Flesh for Lulu, Vaporizer
5.11 Lab Wall, Lights in the Forest, Crusher, Stone Temple Pilot, Children's Crusade
5.10 VMC DD, Last Unicorn, Lost Souls, Across the Universe, Peer Pressure
5.9 Diedre, Recombeast, Chitlin Corner
There are many more great ones, and also so many that I haven't even got on yet!

Mark- forever the diplomat

CaptainMo wrote: JAWS II???? REALLY? you're going to put that down on a list of best climbs under 5.13 in New England? Come'on that list stinks for Rumney all over... maybe except for the Falcon... Rumney list should include: Predator, Techosurfing, Social Outcast, Flyin' Hawaiian, Rip Tide, Flesh for LuLu, Thin Man, Giant Man, Restless Native, Man Overboard, Black Mamba, Stone Monkey.

my god I never knew just how...

...

wow, this is mind-blowing.

Like really eye-opening.

Oh, come on now G- Mark has issues ( smile)

I think you meant Jake. I am perfectly normal and an excellent driver.

Can't believe Beat Junkie got only one mention!

What style are you looking for? There's a huge variety in New England, everything from pumpy jug-hauling (e.g. Ginseng, Shagg It), to hyper-technical beta insanity (Coral Sea, Dodge the lemons, Urban) to bouldering on a rope: Bottom Feeder, Stone Monkeys, to technical face crimping: Great White.

The Prow, Recompense, Rapid Transit, Toe Crack--Cathedral, NH

The Crusher, Espresso, Flesh for Lulu, Sweet Polly Purebred, Black Mamba, B-B-Buttress--Rumney, NH

The Rose, The Thorn, The Deep End, Ganesh, Politics of Dancing, Eagle Point Crack--Vermont

Gunklandia, Old Town, Green Mt. Breakdown, Chick of the Sea--Acadia, ME

Sadly, the ADKs are considered the Northeast, and NOT New England, otherwise my list would be exponentially longer.

For sea cliff climbing experience, check out Great Head in Acadia National Park. I cannot recall the names of routes without a detailed topo/guide in front of me.
Over at Otter Cliff, Guillotine, A Dare, and Riptide (did it get wiped out by the rockfall?) were all memorable for me, even on TR.
Tho Gunklandia is significantly easier than OP's 5.10~5.13 range, Gunlandia link into Return to Forever is quite enjoyable.

S. Neoh wrote:For sea cliff climbing experience, check out Great Head in Acadia National Park. I cannot recall the names of routes without a detailed topo/guide in front of me. Over at Otter Cliff, Guillotine, A Dare, and Riptide (did it get wiped out by the rockfall?) were all memorable for me, even on TR. Tho Gunklandia is significantly easier than OP's 5.10~5.13 range, Gunlandia link into Return to Forever is quite enjoyable.

Head Arete (10+) and Morning Glory (8+).

But the final answer(s) are in much more urban NE. Jane and Cro-Magnon. Case closed. Next question.

You got it wrong Eric, the final answer is My Mind Is A Blank at College Rock, MA! Best of the whole NE.

To everyone else - just kidding.

LadderLine at the Quarries

Eric Engberg wrote: Head Arete (10+) and Morning Glory (8+). But the final answer(s) are in much more urban NE. Jane and Cro-Magnon. Case closed. Next question.

Ya screw Otter Cliffs... get ur gear and head right over to Great Head That is the place to be (well not in a storm) for classic huge NE sea routes.

Fish Scale 12d is super proud:

Jake D. wrote: He probably flipped through the guidebook and guessed.. Greg's experience at rumney doesn't get far from parking lot wall. +1 on Orangahang to the Rumney list Future Shock at Whitehorse.. such a cool feature. (and i hate slab so that says a lot) RI boulders.. Chelsea Smiles.. one of the hardest in the NE Chemical (even the easier stand start is fun) Loadies Zen

The guy asked for some favorites, I gave him some favorites, even if they're not far from parking lot wall. I'm not a 12-13 climber so I can't speak for routes like Orangahang, although I'm working to get there. Can't wait to get on Future Shock either. Looks super cool.

When alain Comeau. the f/a guy for Future Shock was working on ths ffa, he really thought about the 10+ grade. Really

Moby grape is OK hardly a classic - 100' of good climbing

What?!

All due respect, but this is madness.

Also Rose Crack is much steeper than it looks in that photo, overhangs the whole way, but I would say that it is a VT classic, not a NE classic. Not high praise.

Spider's Web, Daks.

John Husky wrote: Spider's Web, Daks.

Like I said, the Daks are not considered New England, otherwise this list would be eeeeeeennnnnddddllllleeeeeesssssss...

Sorry, I see New England and read Northeast.