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How old is your harness?

Original Post
earl mcalister · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 241

How often do you replace your harness? I've been climbing about 6 years on a regular basis (over 100 days a year in past years) and am on my 2nd harness. I have a Petzl Calidris that I have used a lot the last 2 years and the webbing on the leg loop buckles is quite worn (one side is about half worn through from chimneying) that I am considering replacing. Just wanted to get opinions of how long others will wait to retire theirs. I know people that climb less than me and replace theirs annually.

Ben Schuldt · · Bowling Green, KY · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

When in doubt, replace it. I'm sure your life and the mental comfort of your partner are worth more than the $75-100 for a new harness.

In answer to your question, I replace mine every 4-5 years when I replace my rope.

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

I heard this a while ago and can't remember from where but heard that 7 years is when nylon manufacturers recommend replacing nylon products.

If things are getting worn out though I'd say it's time, regardless of how long you've had it. That's when I generally replace things. It's usually long before manufacturer recommendations though.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Sounds like it's high time to replace your harness.

I replace mine every 3ish years probably, but I also have a ~10 year old Arcteryx Vapor (The first laser cut harness made, with purple fleece lining) that I refuse to throw away because it's just perfect. Best damn harness ever made. I use it pretty much exclusively in the gym and it's in perfect shape. It sat hidden in the bottom of my closet for 7 years probably and I just recently found it and started using it again.

Said Pazirandeh · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 685

Interesting you post this topic on the anniversary of Todd Skinner's Death:

mountainproject.com/v/10587…

james-va · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

I'm using one from 1994 or 1995.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I have a few to choose from , none older than 2008 and none with more than 20 days a year climbing on them. No severe lead falls, that's for sure. ( I'm easy going climber these days)

Burd · · Selinsgrove, PA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

Agree. Sounds like it's time and you got your money's-worth out of it.

Rob Kepley · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,005
Jon H wrote: but I also have a ~10 year old Arcteryx Vapor (The first laser cut harness made, with purple fleece lining)
God I wish they would bring that harness back! Best damn harness I've ever owned.
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

I've got a circa-1992 era REI brand harness (remember when theymade climbing gear?) that had no padding (really just a glorified Swiss Seat) that gets used on occasion.

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,815

Earl, it's time to replace that harness.

So much of the lifespan of the harness depends on what you do to your harness. Chimneying is really hard on harnesses. You can go through a harness on one route if it is tight enough of a squeeze. I recall rubbing through a leg strap on a harness on one desert chimney. Still, general cragging and minimal abrasions can get you into the 5th year. Inspect your harness each time you get out there, especially your belay loop (which can be backed up). Todd, we miss you. The old Petzl Jump harness seemed to be really tolerant of abuse.

EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,207

I get a new one every year.

earl mcalister · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 241

Wow, that is a strange coincidence about the Skinner anniversary. I often think of him and look at my belay loop when I do a lot of raps. Thanks for the info everyone.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

My sport harness is fine but my big wall harness, which I use when bolting new routes, is too old and abused. Frayed as all hell-but I did back up my belay loop.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Aric Datesman wrote:I've got a circa-1992 era REI brand harness (remember when theymade climbing gear?) that had no padding (really just a glorified Swiss Seat) that gets used on occasion.
Same here, those seat belt webbing sit-harnesses with the 2 big tie in loops up front. Ageless REI design. Cheapest harness available for 19.95 or so. Got some from the early 80's around yet, in 3 different sizes and colors.
Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I have had the leg loops on two harness blow out. Both times were from falls in climbing gyms, on retired (from outside climbing) harnesses. Both falls were pretty scary in that, once the leg loop breaks, your center of balance is off and there is the feeling that it may be possible to fall out of the harness, which realistically is probably not likely.

I primarily trad climb, and like the wide, so I sense my leg loops may get more abrasion than others may experience.

Agree with the general sentiment expressed here, inspect your gear, when in doubt, replace it.

The comments about harnesses from 1992 and 1994 still in use - that is a long time ago - perhaps consideration should be given to retiring those harnesses!

Climb Ohn. Wally

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Woodchuck ATC wrote: Same here, those seat belt webbing sit-harnesses with the 2 big tie in loops up front. Ageless REI design. Cheapest harness available for 19.95 or so. Got some from the early 80's around yet, in 3 different sizes and colors.
Surprisingly comfy in spite of the lack of padding, aren't they? Only reason mine has be relegated to spare-harness-for-TR-or-gym duty is the lack of gear loops. Perhaps I should add some gear loops and rack up the set of Titons I've slowly been acquiring?
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Aric Datesman wrote: Surprisingly comfy in spite of the lack of padding, aren't they? Only reason mine has be relegated to spare-harness-for-TR-or-gym duty is the lack of gear loops. Perhaps I should add some gear loops and rack up the set of Titons I've slowly been acquiring?
I actually did add a section of 5mm cord for gear loops on one of them to carry a few items along. Hand sewn, so not very strong. Agree that they were pretty foolproof. YOur double tie in points guarantee you are upright, and even hold if buckle failed. Quite a unique design for REI to come up with. Agree they are still good enough for gym or easy toprope use yet.
JKzxcv · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10
Wally wrote:I have had the leg loops on two harness blow out. Both times were from falls in climbing gyms, on retired (from outside climbing) harnesses. Both falls were pretty scary in that, once the leg loop breaks, your center of balance is off and there is the feeling that it may be possible to fall out of the harness, which realistically is probably not likely. I primarily trad climb, and like the wide, so I sense my leg loops may get more abrasion than others may experience. Agree with the general sentiment expressed here, inspect your gear, when in doubt, replace it. The comments about harnesses from 1992 and 1994 still in use - that is a long time ago - perhaps consideration should be given to retiring those harnesses! Climb Ohn. Wally
When your leg loops broke did you get hurt from the waist belt slamming into your chest/armpits? It seems like you could get some bad whiplash on your back from a fall being caught by only the waistbelt.
chosspector · · San Juans, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 1,296

If you start worrying about it, then replace it.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
JKzxcv wrote: When your leg loops broke did you get hurt from the waist belt slamming into your chest/armpits? It seems like you could get some bad whiplash on your back from a fall being caught by only the waistbelt.
Thousands of people took numerous whippers on nothing but a swami belt (or less!) "back in the day".
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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