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Kenny P > Hornli Ridge, Matterhorn
I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn; he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible; do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.
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Matterhorn from Zermatt
Swiss Summit of the Matterhorn
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Kenny P
Oct 22, 2012
“I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn; he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible; do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.”  

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I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn; he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible; do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.
Swiss Summit of the Matterhorn
Waiting in line to ascend the first fixed rope at 4:20am; we came to Zermatt in good fitness and we were able to climb past nearly every team. Nevertheless 3,996ft of climbing thins out the herd; and as we descended through the various teams that were still climbing we noticed the spacing had grown between most of the parties.
Looking down at my partner Ricky as we near the section above the Solvay Hut known as "The Gebiss"- which is a steep section with some fixed rope. The "normal" route ascends the obious jumble of fixed lines; however the "by-pass" continues further left at the first set of fixed ropes for another two or three meters, then ascends directly up. (The only problem with this variation, though faster, is that it exposes the team momentarily to potential rockfall down the East Face).
Matterhorn from Zermatt
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