Draws for ICE
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My brother lives in Montana and has slowly been getting into ice climbing. I was thinking about getting him a few trad/alpine draws for Christmas. My question is two fold. |
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If I were your brother, I'd be super psyched to receive these as a present and maybe a couple of screamers. The whole point of a meaningful gift is something that they would love to have but would not dare to splurge on. Don't worry about not getting a full rack of draws even a few of these would be a super nice addition to any ice, trad or alpine rack. Petzl Anges are nice too, but in my experience they're kinda a bitch to clean on ice. |
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For what its worth, I picked these up recently when BC.com had their 20% off coupon. I have used them for cragging and plan to use them for ice climbing as well. |
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photocodo wrote:Now how about those extendable pieces of material that go between the two biners? Is there a material that holds up to ice better or holds up better for ice climbing. My guess would be dyneema for weight, or is nylon better? Ive been using BD slings and metolius monsters, I like them both but how about for ice? Thanks for the help guys and I will be coming back to this forum when I move up to the North East. cheers, CodyYou could make him some alpine draws. BD slings work well, so do Mammut and most slings. I don't have much experience with the thicker ones, and it's not the first thing I would reach for. |
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ive not had issues with the petzl ange finesses for ice |
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BD hoodwires with BD 60cm dynex sling makes for a nice ice quickdraw. I wouldn't complain if I received that from my brother. Lots of options here though... |
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As far as Ice climbing goes I like the pacific Omega biners see link below, they are reasonably light and big enough to clip and handle with gloves on. |
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Just get some screamers for your bro.As far as biners go, you're on the right track trying to find big and light. |
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I use screamers for all my ice draws. I made them with Trango wire gate on the screw side and the Trango neoclassic bent keylock on the clipping side for reduced snagging. Then have rubber banded each end to keep the biner in place for quick clipping. Pretty effective and decently cheap overall. |
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Petzl Ange large size are pretty awesome |
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I climb with all screamers and a couple runners all with wire gates. Mammut makes a great screamer that's the bees knees as far as I'm concerned. And for my biners i use the BD hoodwires. Whatever biner you end up with go wiregate. |
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i use mammut moses binners on mammut dyneema screamers. its a great, no hassel, low bulk, and light weight set up. |
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Personally, I think big, easy to use, and less fiddly trumps any concerns about lightness, at least for technical ice. Gear is all so light now that it doesn't make that much of a difference. That equation changes when you are talking more alpine, where weight has a premium. |
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Wild Country Heliums (big...check; light...check) and Dyneema slings for alpine draws plus a few with Screamers. 'Tis the shiznit. |
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Because it hasn't been said yet, I'll add that ice climbing can get pretty wet, so the fact that dyneema doesn't absorb as much water as nylon definitely seems to be a plus. The average ice climber has to deal with way more wetness than the average rock climber. |
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All the above is good advice. I have Wild Country Heliums and I love them, but they are not that big and can be fiddly in thick gloves. To be honest look for simple wire gates (dont freeze shut) and easy handling. A few screamers are very useful but not necessary. As for weight, well when on the ice you have a few pounds of crampons, a few pounds of ice axes, lots of clothing, often two ropes, helmet, impact glasses, warm clothes, spare gloves and a lot of other bits and bobs - a few extra oz's dont matter. |
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Trango superfly are light, big and cheap |