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China Doll (P1-2, free)
5.13+ YDS 8b French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 3.8 from 14
votes
Routes in Lost Angel
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AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 |
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China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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China Doll's Voyage (Link up of China Doll P1 into Earth Voyage P2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crack In the Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Escape From Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Host, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lacewing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Life on Mars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Light of Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Naked Lunch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pistol Grip Pump T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock Odyssey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Technical Remote Viewing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Pitch 1 - Bob Horan, pitch 2 - Mike Patz |
| Page Views: | 23,805 total · 99/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Patz on Aug 21, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route climbs the obvious spectacular right-leaning crack in the middle of Lost Angel Wall. The first pitch features technical stemming with a boulder-problem crux in the middle. The business of the second pitch is about 25 feet of sustained cranking up the thin arching crack.
Pitch 1 - climb a short 5.10ish bolted pitch to anchors where the crack begins. Continue up the crack either placing gear or clipping bolts on the right and finish at a 3-bolt anchor (5.13b/c).
Pitch 2 - do a couple of easy moves where the crack is wide. Come out of the offwidth, and grovel with thrutchy lieback moves and finger/tips locks for about 25 feet of super-pumpy rock climbing. At one point, a glued-on hold was utilized here to avoid the difficulties. After running it out for the last 12 or so feet, pull into a scoop where you can rest. Keep going up the crack, and finish with tricky 5.11ish climbing to two hangerless bolts on the right. Stop here or continue up for about 10 feet, then go left out the roof clipping two bolts that bring you to Beauty and the Bolts (11d). Top out Beauty and the Bolts or traverse left to anchors and go down (5.13+).
The rest (P3-5) of China Doll apparently has not gone free.
Pitch 1 - climb a short 5.10ish bolted pitch to anchors where the crack begins. Continue up the crack either placing gear or clipping bolts on the right and finish at a 3-bolt anchor (5.13b/c).
Pitch 2 - do a couple of easy moves where the crack is wide. Come out of the offwidth, and grovel with thrutchy lieback moves and finger/tips locks for about 25 feet of super-pumpy rock climbing. At one point, a glued-on hold was utilized here to avoid the difficulties. After running it out for the last 12 or so feet, pull into a scoop where you can rest. Keep going up the crack, and finish with tricky 5.11ish climbing to two hangerless bolts on the right. Stop here or continue up for about 10 feet, then go left out the roof clipping two bolts that bring you to Beauty and the Bolts (11d). Top out Beauty and the Bolts or traverse left to anchors and go down (5.13+).
The rest (P3-5) of China Doll apparently has not gone free.
Photos
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