S-direct warm ups?
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Any recommended routes to warm up on before I try S-direct? I hear it's run out and one should be solid at the grade before you head up it. Final Link on Crescent Crack buttress seems to be right up that alley. Anything else? |
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Final link is good, Kermits Wad, Barefoot in Barbados, Pebbles and BamBam/Date with Fate, The 2nd pitch of Mind Blow is great crystal pinching with well spaced bolts, Western Brebe->Fools Paradise->Dark of the Moon. |
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If you climb as hard as your profile says, you should be fine. Even without the slab technique down. |
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Thanks for the recommends Greg. Headed up the canyon today and maybe get on sdirect later this week if time permits. Dallin , about that profile, ha ha. not climbing much these days so am more conservative when its run out. The thing about lcc is that I can go scare the crap out of myself on a 5.9 slab, and then head over to bcc and onsite all the 11's at the lower s curves. I have even had quite a lot of slab experience all over the west too but the inconsistencies with grades around here makes me more conservative. |
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If you're super comfy on the Hook, then...that'd be good. |
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Go send the boulder problem at the Riverside called Feck. S-Direct will be easy. |
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tenesmus wrote:Go send the boulder problem at the Riverside called Feck.Sending Feck would make S-direct feel 4th class... Probably ruin the experience making every dish feel like a ledge. All recommendations above are good. I'd add the slabzzz at Lizard Head, tad harder but better protected. There's not much you can do to prep for the runouts on S-Direct anyway... Also, how could you guys forget the best slab linkup in the canyon, River's Edge to Daddy Long Legs to Evening Falls! Brian was almost onto something there... |
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Thanks guys. Climbed Final Link today and loved it. It definitely felt spooky at first but after you get into the rhythm of it the climbing isn't bad. I was looking at the recommendations you guys put out there and think I climbed Ape Index a month or so ago, but I believe bolts were added, unless it is a new line not listed. Good slab climbing. I think S-direct will be doable for us. |
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Prune Face |