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Easy multi-pitch desert wall/tower?

Original Post
Anona I. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 0

I am planning on being in the Moab/4 corners area around Thanksgiving. I am an experienced, but not necessarily very strong trad climber and I was wondering if there are any easy (5.7 and under), multi-pitch, desert tower/walls that someone could recommend?

Andrew McLean · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 370

Try the South Six Shooter in Indian Creek.

Paul Gagner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 118

I second South Six Shooter - great fun.

Also lots in the Arches.

Lizard Rock in the Fisher Towers, and of course Ancient Art. North Chimney on Castleton, which is a bit harder.

Paul

roundhead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

owl rock in arches

Devin Fin · · DURANGO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 3,725

north chimney castelton !!!! go for it that easy aproch great anchors bring a#5

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

South six shooter is the easiest mentioned above but still has a bit of 5.8 despite your clear parameters. You should feel ok on 5.9 before attempting the others.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

thanks for calling it easy instead of that word moderate!

J Achey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 155

Not exactly Moab, but nearby, west of Green River, the San Rafael Reef has many 500+ foot slab routes that are 5.8 and below - check out the MP listings. Sandy, runout, and fun if you are into that kind of thing, and technically much easier than the routes suggested above.

BackAtItAgain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15
Devin Fin wrote:north chimney castelton !!!! go for it that easy aproch great anchors bring a#5
Don't even think about this route if you can't lead a 160 ft 5.9 crack.. it will spank you and clear your insufficient rack at the same time...
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

Try "best routes for you" in the Moab area database on this site. Some good suggestions there.

Looking Glass is fun.

Mr. Hummus · · SLC, Utah · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 37

You would be better off going to potash road in Moab to climb easy routes.

michael rowell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

I was looking at doing Standard(west fins) on the elephant butte one rest day while in moab.. anybody done the route? is it any fun?

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
Mr. Hummus wrote:You would be better off going to potash road in Moab to climb easy routes.
That or the Ice Cream Parlor.

Most towers are a bigger bite than most expect, especially if you've been weaned on "easy" towers like Ancient Art and Owl Rock. Ancient Art is a lot of fun, but the 5.8/5.9 second pitch will challenge your head space if you're not comfortable at the grade, and the third pitch on is very difficult if you can't handle exposure.

Castleton is awesome via either 5.9 route, but they both involve sustained 5.9 offwidth (Kor-Ingalls more than North Chimney) so they aren't within your parameters.
rob rebel · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5

If you are near grand junction/fruita then ottos route.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
michael rowell wrote:I was looking at doing Standard(west fins) on the elephant butte one rest day while in moab.. anybody done the route? is it any fun?
Yes, lots of fun. Nice view.
Anona I. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone who has contributed so far. Please keep them coming!

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Chris Ilg wrote:Thanks everyone who has contributed so far. Please keep them coming!
No. We are done my son. Take what you have learned and make wise choices grasshopper.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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