Dazed and Confused
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 12 votes
Type: | Sport, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | W. Peterson C. Jirka |
Page Views: | 1,340 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Jeremy Joseph on Sep 30, 2012 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The first pitch is good. It is 155 feet of 10c climbing with good protection. The second pitch is 11a that is really runout! I wouldn't recommend this pitch.
Per Wes Peterson: start from the Printerboy ledge, directly over Printerboy. This ledge can be accessed via multiple routes. The first pitch at 10c takes you up a surprisingly long, steep section with good rests and is well-protected, bring a minimum of 20 qiuckdraws. At 155', you'll arrive at spectacular little ledge with a bomber rappel station. The second pitch is the very reason you came this far. The rock is of the highest quality and beauty the Monitor has to offer. Your position on the Monitor is the middle of the very upper headwall looking up at the water streak. With a 11a move and good protection, move up. When the rock kicks to low angle, look left, and do easy climbing through a couple spaced out bolts. This is a great way to finish.
Walk off or rap. The bomber rappel station is to climbers right at the very top. 2 60 meter ropes and 3 rappels finds the ground.
Per Wes Peterson: start from the Printerboy ledge, directly over Printerboy. This ledge can be accessed via multiple routes. The first pitch at 10c takes you up a surprisingly long, steep section with good rests and is well-protected, bring a minimum of 20 qiuckdraws. At 155', you'll arrive at spectacular little ledge with a bomber rappel station. The second pitch is the very reason you came this far. The rock is of the highest quality and beauty the Monitor has to offer. Your position on the Monitor is the middle of the very upper headwall looking up at the water streak. With a 11a move and good protection, move up. When the rock kicks to low angle, look left, and do easy climbing through a couple spaced out bolts. This is a great way to finish.
Walk off or rap. The bomber rappel station is to climbers right at the very top. 2 60 meter ropes and 3 rappels finds the ground.
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4 Comments