Giant City State Park Climbing

Southern Illinois boasts several climbing areas, but none have more history then Giant City State Park. For Illinois, this is the birthplace for hard, progressive climbing. Giant City State Park is owned and managed by the Illinois Department of Natural Resources (IDNR).

Within the park, there are two main areas, Shelter 1 Bluff and the Devil's Standtable Area. The Makanda Bluff, "aka Shelter 1" is primarily a sport and traditional climbing area with the routes ranging 5.6 - 5.12. This area is great for short training sessions in preparation for other big areas. One route that deserve mentioning is City Limits. At the time it was established, it was one of the hardest routes in the country, and the world. Another climb worth mentioning is the Return to Forever boulder traverse that runs along the base of the bluff line. Beginning from Jills and running to the Camel's Hump, this challenging boulder problem will have you searching for rests while fighting to not get pumped. For those looking for more of a challenge, there is a low variation, and a super long variation that begins at the Chimney in the woods and stretches to the Camel's Hump.

Although an upstanding history of partnership existed prior to 2017 between Giant City State Park and the Illinois Climbers Association (ICA), the premier project began around this time when the ICA added fixed anchors (bolts) to the climbing areas. Now climbers can enjoy stainless steel hardware as they sport climb in these historic areas.  This project benefited both climbers and the natural resources by eliminating the need for climbers to rappel off trees on the sensitive bluff top. Please tell the park that you love the climbing at Giant City!

The Devils Standtable area contains a bouldering area and rope climbs. Fun intermediate boulder problems worth mentioning are The Standard, Buzz Arete, and the Center Line. Great advanced boulder problems that visitors are recommended to attempt are Devil on a Leash, Jah Arete, and Higher Education. All in all the area is great for quick bouldering sessions. Sport climbing in the amphitheater is steep, bouldery, and hard!

For the sake of organizing areas on Mountain Project, another bouldering area nearby that is not exactly within the confines of Giant City, but is close enough, is The Orchards. Found on USFS Shawnee National Forest land, this small, yet secluded area offers several challenging problems and contains one very hard project that supposedly is yet to be sent. The recommended problem here is Duraflame, and is a fun/challenging test of anyones roof climbing abilities.

As a last note, a huge thanks should be given to Giant City's early pioneers for their vision and dedication to Illinois first climbing destination. Thank you: Craig Barnes, Jim Foster, Cris Franks, Joe Dittamore, Joe Heally, Adam Grosowsky, Gene Charleton, Greg Bailey, Alan Carrier, and many others for all of your work.