Direct Beckey Route on the E Perch

Looking for beta, impressions, pitch by pitch memories. Ever climbed it?

Super route, one of the best "alpine" rock routes I've done, generally great rock quality. Would be hard to get lost, as its a fairly continuous crack system. First 4 pitches are fairly continuous but it never really drops off that much. At the top of the 9th or 10th you pass through the only sketch rock on the route as you pass through some kind of roof band. Above this, you have a final headwall to climb, which is a bit less obvious, unless newer topos describe it. We went generally right, long pitch, runout, so-so belay.

It's fun, fun, fun. One of my favorite rock climbs. If you can do the first pitch, you have the rest of the route in the bag. The first seven pitches or so are sustained, but wonderfully solid and secure.

I'll try to post some photos when I get to a regular computer.

The roof move on pitch 6? was my favorite move on the route. Pitch 1 is really hard because you put your gear in the only good holds. The 6 5.10 pitches are all sustained and physically and emotionally draining, but I was pretty much climbing at my limit on all that. Routefinding is a little tricky higher up. Break it into 4 pitches from the beckey tree, the last one being on the fat ledge before the final 5.9 crack. I learned my lesson on fine line and had heinous rope drag trying to push it to the top.

Good Stuff keep it coming.

Amazing, but very difficult and sustained (sandbagged) for the grades