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Rock/Ice at Puffer Mountain

Original Post
Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

Has anyone climbed at Puffer Mountain before? I made a trip out this past winter for ice climbing...but made a navigation mistake and never made it to the cliffs.

Motivated to ice climb there this winter, I made a trip back to the area with my climbing partner to find where we turned wrong. Ends up we started at the wrong trail head because we didn't spot the flagpole that was noted in Adk Rock.

After a 5.5 hr bushwack, flagging trees along the way to help out in the winter, we arrived at the cliffs. There is definitely multi-pitch rock and ice potential. Tons of nice looking vertical cracks, very clean for not getting any traffic. Along the way were some nice boulders also, but carrying a pad would not be very ideal. There was also a lower cliff that looked suitable for single pitch climbs.

Pictures will come shortly...they are being edited and review now.

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

I've definitely been intrigued after reading ADK rock.

"Medium-sized cliff with one route in a wicked remote, gorgeous setting."

"The cliff is both clean and undeveloped, with good potential for single-pitch crack climbs."

It sounds like a fun place to go explore

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

It would definitely have to be a multi-day trip to get anything out of it. The approach may be easier in the winter with ice over the creeks, but I can guarantee that there will be no broken trail for 80% of the way. There are a few dry areas under overhangs that could be used as a "base camp".

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

I could probably get 3-4 days dedicated to something like this. Have all the equipment necessary and then some. Lead 5.10 and M6-7 on gear.

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395
Dave Leydet · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 161

looks like it has some great potential. I would be down to get after it this winter if someone decides to do it.

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395
Dave77 wrote:looks like it has some great potential. I would be down to get after it this winter if someone decides to do it.
I'll keep you in the loop.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Bill Sacks wrote: Trip Report with Photos
You didn't do any rock climbing there?
Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395
Gunkiemike wrote: You didn't do any rock climbing there?
Just went there on a rainy weekend to find out how to do the approach and put some flagging up. With the ~5hr approach it would be worth making a full weekend trip out of it instead of just one day.
MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Not to start a war or anything here, but when you go back take your flagging down. Orange surveyors tape has zero place in the woods. Period. This comes from someone who has bushwhacked all over the Adirondacks, even on Puffer Mountain, and has never understood why people need to leave that stuff around for somebody else to clean up. You didn't leave any other litter did you?

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Yeah...pollution is pollution. Period. We go to places like indian pass or puffer mountain etc to get away from everyday life and civilization and seeing something like would really get my goat in the wilderness

Brandon Howard · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 25

Agree with the two above. The bushwhacking around Puffer Mountain can be brutal, but I've been in that area many times and we have never needed to mark our trail. Orange tape out there is going to upset a lot of people. Besides, what is a trip to Puffer without two - three hours of stumbling around in the bushes going "where the fuck am I?!"

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

You actually have to LOOK hard to see the flagging. It is not like there are tens or hundreds of flags around the trail. I would be surprised if many people ever walk by our flags, seeing that they would have to bushwacked the same exact way as we did to find them. Not saying that everywhere should be flagged, but the orange is basically camouflage in the changing leaves. They will be taken down after approaching in the winter.

Max,I didn't leave any other litter. I actually picked up some old bottles that I found along the way to help clean up the trail system. Do you guys also get upset looking at bolts on routes? Think of this like a "bolted" trail.

MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

To counter the above points: I can see that flagging clearly in your picture, and I'm not looking very hard.

Second, bolts on a route and flagging in the woods are two separate and completely different scenarios. Bolts are used for rock climbing to protect otherwise unprotectable sections of rock or provide an adequate belay when none exists... or that's the way they're supposed to be used. Bolts are sometimes necessary to make a route reasonably safe but flagging in the woods marking a route for hiking is NEVER necessary to make anything safe.

I am indeed absolutely opposed to unnecessary bolts, just as I am opposed to flagging. You somehow got yourselves there once, right? What exactly is the difficulty in doing it again? I've been bushwhacking for most of my life and have NEVER, EVER considered using flagging for any reason. If you feel like you have to mark a trail for some reason use a cairn, at least that way the next guy to come along can kick it over and does not have to pack out your trash!

Lastly, I've heard the "we'll take our flagging down" line a whole bunch of times before yet seem to come across that stuff disturbingly often.

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

I'll be sure to post back here with photos of the removed flagging when that time comes. It is easier to see in a photo than in the woods when there is a lot going on outside of the frame and you are not looking directly at the wide side of the flagging. Do you get upset about reflective markings on trees from NYS? Some trails are obvious, but there are still markings. I am fairly certain that I came across flagging last winter around Puffer, but it wasn't an eyesore at all.

As long as people don't start flagging trad routes then I am happy.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

People who go to a place like Puffer are not looking for the 'trail' experience. The flags, to them, are litter. It's not a stretch to understand this.

I've been there, done worse. I learned from my mistakes.

Brandon Howard · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 25

Exactly what Kevin said. You go to Puffer to get away ftom the crowds up there. No trails = no peolple = what we are looking for. Dacks are getting crowded

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

I've heard that Canada is trying to purchase the Adirondacks and make the region part of Quebec...

Not really but sometimes it doesn't feel so far off

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

The only place that I have seen other people while climbing is Chapel Pond. Other than that, it is only me and my partners. Rumney is a different story, eh?

Dave Leydet · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 161
Bill Sacks wrote: I'll keep you in the loop.
sounds good
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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