Cap'm Pissgums
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 19 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Dave Baker, Mark Axen 1972 // FFA: Steve Grossman, Fig Fiola 1975 |
Page Views: | 6,109 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on May 8, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
pitch 1 clip a bolt and stem a strenuous face (very, very tricky 5.10+/5.11) into a bottomless chimney past 2 bolts to alcove (5.11, 40').
pitch 2 Step around right to gain main crack and continue to bolted belay at base of chimney (5.8, 70').
pitch 3 Climb right side of chimney past 'death block' (repeat, do not touch) and belay in 3"-4" crack near old bolt hole (5.8 R, 90').
pitch 4 Climb the spectacular overhanging crack in V chimney (mostly 2", 5.10+) to belay above "Y" w/ 3"-4" cams (5.10++/ 5.11, 80').
pitch 5 follow crack up and right, then left at bulge to sloping ledge below 2 aid bolts (5.7, 100').
pitch 6 A0 to summit OR step right to a newer bolt and 5.11 face to summit, tie off feature left of bowl (5.10, 60').
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