Best flake in CO?

did a little searching in the forums and did not find what I was looking for..

Besides the snowflakes that will hopefully start falling soon, I'm interested in climbing some cool, moderate flake (up to 5.11). Any suggestions? does not have to be only flake climbing but it should have some cool flake moves...

thanks in advance- Addison

Sport or trad?

Sport... try Toxxxic Entertainment at at Shelf, .10a.

Trad... the first thing that comes to mind for me is the first pitch of Backflip at Lumpy, 5.9.

Kor's flake.

Addison wrote:I'm interested in climbing some cool, moderate flake (up to 5.11).

Moderate is up to 5.11? OK, well then may I suggest Cary Granite on Mt. Evans?
There is a lot of flake on it too.
While this, at 11c, is at the upper end of your specs, it is also something that just went out of season, which gives you plenty of time to train for it next spring.
After a 150' first pitch of 5.10d (short crux) crack climbing, which actually climbs like a flake for the last 50' of diagonal 5.9:

You get to the second pitch, which is pretty much 5.10 open book and flake for 120':

And at the top of that open book and flake, you hit the crux roof flake of P2 (11a):


Then comes the 3rd pitch. You'll want a strong partner with good thin face skills for the 11a/b traverse getting to the P3 flake (there is a reason why nobody has pictures of that - it is safe safe, they are "Watch me!" belaying). But once on the P3 flake it's up and over the roof at 11b/c, and it is well protected and it's a blast:


Sorry, P4 is not as interesting. It isn't a flake pitch.
But maybe you'll have had your fill?

Enjoy the quest for the holy grail!

Reggae in Eldo, they say it's a dihedral but it's more of a flake..

Tony B wrote:OK, well then may I suggest Cary Granite on Mt. Evans?

2 Things:
1. Tony always gives great suggestions. I think he has climbed more routes and remembers them better then anyone I have come across.
2. That route looks great and is now on my todo list. Thanks Tony.

-Jon

Tony, thanks for posting. That looks amazing... something to aspire to for next summer.

2 route suggestions:
Moonlight Drive, Eldo
Cheap Date, Lumpy

The Bastille crack is pretty flakey, on the lower end of the spectrum and crowded, but you could lay back most of it.

It's fairly moderate, but White Whale at Lumpy has a pretty spectacular flake on the first pitch.