Suggestions for beginner Trad in Sandias?

I'm looking for routes to place as much gear as possible in the Sandias or within 3 hrs of ABQ. Up to 5.7 in grade. I appreciate any help. I'd love to tag along with someone with experience with Sandias too. Thanks

Looking at your pics you already did Flake 'n Bake. The Lost Ledge is a nice 5.7 with good gear. You can even evade the crux by stepping left (See the Sandia Rock guide book topo).
I would also recommend Estrellita although at 5.8 it's a little harder than you looked for. IMO it has better gear than any of the easier routes in the Sandias and if you bring a double rack, you can really saw it up. You'll need to build a gear anchor on top though.

But Eric is right. In general the Sandias are probably not the best spot for easier well protected routes.

I did the west side traverse on the tombstone and it wasn't as easy to protect for my comfort at beginning of P2 and the traverse itself was a bit sketch if a slip occurred. Thanks guys.

I'll go out in the Sandias with you, I'm working my way through the grades up there as well. Text me at 423-260-6456.

Bruno has a good suggestion (...that's twice in one month that I agree with you cx, what is the world coming to?)

That is, the Gemstone area is a good place to start. As Bruno states, Gemstone itself is quite good, both climbing and rock quality wise. However, also consider "Revenge of the Elderly" 5.7 and eventually either Sapphire or Emerald City when you are ready (see page here: mountainproject.com/v/gemst… ). In fact, if you really wanted, you could try toproping (while practicing gear placements) both Sapphire and/or Emerald City after leading Revenge of the Elderly because they finish at the same final rap station.

Don't be discouraged by the relatively low star ratings given for Revenge of the Elderly on MP, it is actually a pretty fun route and the rock quality is quite good (especially by Sandias standards). I can't think of a better route at the grade in the range that goes on for 3-4 pitches.

You guys are awesome to take the time for suggestions/tips. I will take all the advice I can get.)

Calling the Sandias "choss" is misleading and is a term used by those without the skills to climb the harder routes.

Joshua, your profile indicates that you follow 5.10+ trad, that's great, since it makes some of the best routes in the Sandias accessible to you. Lead some of the moderates in Lower La Cueva, but move on to harder climbing ASAP. There are a number of good 5.9 routes, and as Eric mentioned, 5.10 and harder is where the Sandias really shine.

Know your limits, learn how to downclimb, work on your route finding skills, trust your pro, and get strong. TR stuff like The Great Escape, Western Justice, Jekyll and Hyde, etc which all easily accessible. Have fun, we're lucky to have the Sandias in our backyard.

We are very lucky to be so close to the Sandias. Can't wait to start ticking some more routes. Thanks Mick! I agree the route finding is something I need to learn as well as trusting my gear:/

I will try my best not to die but hey it's always a factor in everything we do;)

I was going to suggest Estrellita and Gemstone but I see they've already been recommended.

I'd like to do a moderate or follow someone in the Sandias before it gets too cold if anyone is interested. I can usually get away for a Saturday or Sunday as long as I can get home by 5:30 or 6:00.

Joshua, a few here have done a great job at recommending solid routes. Work your way thru the grades and do as Mick says and you will be solid.

I agree with Mick as far as calling the Sandia's choss. Do not listen to those people as they have poor skills and are overstating something they know little about. I have been climbing in the Sandia's since late 90's and have been on nearly almost every route and even though there are routes with some sketch the majority of "routes" are pretty good. I spend a ton of time on the road climbing all over the country/world and there are so many places that are like the Sandia's that have classic status. The bottom line is develop good route finding skills and you will keep things safe.

Just remember that if you are on a popular route and if you find yourself pulling down on tons of lose rock you are probably off route. That is why down climbing is a great skill to develop as Mick said. Now there are routes that have pitches that will always have loose rock but the majority of routes are not too bad.

Get out and have a blast exploring.

mattb19 wrote:I have been climbing in the Sandia's since late 90's and have been on nearly almost every route

Wow, that is quite the accomplishment (not the 90's) but nearly every route, cuz there's a boat load of climbs up there. 2 cool.

As for the OP, check out Crackula, it's in the Estrelitta, Ms. Piggy realm. Just make sure you go R on the second pitch or you will be in a different realm (classic runout Sandias)

Farther afield, within your 3 hour radius, don't discount White Rock. I gained a lot of gumby experience leading on gear there. The season is coming in now, with the cooler weather.
Check out especially Potrillo: Cindy's Chimney has been the site of many first gear leads. Also, Car Camping, Belly Up, Chuckwalla, Pillars left, and when you feel strong, Gymnast.
Nearby, at Tortilla Flats, Jalapeno crack is actually a really good line, and Not my Lichen is also a great starter line.
The Overlook is a step up, but RDD is a good easier 5.8 line, then eventually try Headwall Left, and Pollys is a type specimen for 5.8+.
The far left 5.6 Dihedral at Big Enchilada's South face is great, and the few 5.8's that are there are also worthwhile. As are the three left-most easier lines at New New place.

Editorial: The problem with learning to climb with gear at shorter crags like these is that you may be frequently exposed to ground-fall possibilities. You gotta remember to load up the protection early and often, or climb well within your ability as your lead head progresses.
Personally I'm much more comfortable trying hard moves on taller routes where ground- or ledge-falls are less likely. Or else just go sport climbing.

Paul Davidson wrote: Wow, that is quite the accomplishment (not the 90's) but nearly every route, cuz there's a boat load of climbs up there. 2 cool.

I consider my self very lucky to have been able to spend a ton o time in the sandias. I am falling behind as I have not been around much in the past 3 years and new routes are going up. Plus I just seem to be getting weaker.

+1 for Crackula. It has a sweet top out.

You are all helping me create an awesome ticklist! Looks like I have alot to choose from. Does anyone know anything about moderate trad at el Rito?

The El Rito Traditional Area is mostly two-pitch, fun, moderate, gear-protected climbing. It's really face climbing on nice conglomerate rock with small cracks, pockets and flakes for protection. Gear placements can be tricky and not-always obvious but I'd say the routes are generally quite safe.
For introductory routes that are awesome and protect well, I'd suggest Packrat Dihedral, The Big "E" and Juniper Direct.
The wall is west facing so it's shaded and cool this time of year but warms up nicely in the afternoon given there's no wind. Resist the temptation to rap the routes and do the nice walk-off (bring hiking shoes for the walk-off.) There is a good bit of vegetation and small bushes on much of the wall that pulling rap ropes frequently ends with stuck ropes.