Crags in Canada

My friend and I are planning a week trip of climbing in the spring. Our plan was Red Rocks, but I am thinking of going to Canada to climb. If there is a crag that offers at least 1 5.8 sport climb to warm up on he is in. what crag has a mix of routes ranging from 5.8-5.11b that I could spend a week there and not get bored?

I've heard of this place called Squamish...

(if you don't get rained out)

First, make sure you define "spring" based on 53 degrees north... its about a month behind. Prime "Redrocks spring" has Murchison Falls still in shape. We need a specific month. June, earliest.

What Sam said. Early summer in the 'States is "spring" in Canada. That said, check out Skaha in BC. I haven't been there, but have heard *great* things.

by spring I mean March or April

March and April are often still prime ice climbing season in much of Alberta and BC.

isolationist wrote:Could be good for Skaha. A lot of the other spots in Canada will be cold and wet.

What he said.

March is still ice season for the vast majority of the great white north, and it is still rainy season in Squamish. Really the only crag in America's hat that is likely to have good conditions (for rock) at that time of year is Skaha.

Skaha is a semi-desert sport crag in the Okanagan Valley. Pretty area, and generally should be dry with good temperatures at that time of year. It is Canda's banana belt. Good sport crag with a lot of moderates, so it would serve what you are looking for really well. If you do decide to go to Canada to rock climb at that time of year, Skaha is undoubtably the best choice.

That said, going to Canada, from the US, at that time of year to rock climb is really stupid. Anytime between October and April (i.e. most of the year) is when the Canadians flee to the United States in search of decent climbing weather. March and April are pretty marginal for rock climbing in Canada, but are totally prime for rock in many of the best areas of the United States.

Save the trip to Canada for mid-summer, when conditions are good for rock in BC and Alberta. Or go to Canmore in the winter to climb ice. But for spring rock climbing? Stay stateside.

For moderate sport climbing (since it sounds like that is what you want) at that time of year, consider:

Smith Rock
Owens River Gorge
Red River Gorge
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Shelf Road
Saint George
Red Rocks

All of these would be a better choice than Canadia.

I live 2 hours away from Horseshoe Canyon. It sounds like I should wait till June to make my trip to Canada.

I do trad climb, but between my friend and I, we only have enough gear to climb 100 ft or so. The Cliffs in Arkansas don't go over 80 feet.

Mike Ridenhour wrote:My friend and I are planning a week trip of climbing in the spring. Our plan was Red Rocks, but I am thinking of going to Canada to climb. If there is a crag that offers at least 1 5.8 sport climb to warm up on he is in. what crag has a mix of routes ranging from 5.8-5.11b that I could spend a week there and not get bored?

Canadas a pretty big country, you may want to narrow it down....a little.

Skaha is truly your best bet in the Spring with a limited trad rack in western Canada. If you delay until summer, Lake Louise is one of the most enjoyable sport climbing areas I have ever climbed in, despite its small size.

Of course you can always ice climb or mess around in the Canadian Rockies. Many of the alpine routes don't require, or more precisely, don't let you place, a whole lot of gear. I think Canada's true strong point is ice/alpine climbing, but I assume from your post that you are looking more for sport.

Mike Ridenhour wrote: It sounds like I should wait till June to make my trip to Canada.

If you can, wait until August and go to Squamish. It really is the best of the best (but June can still be wet there).

Tons of cragging! Check out the Canmore area; Grassi Lakes has some of the coolest pocket pulling in the west. (and I'm pretty sure there's at least one 5.8)

Thats way too early.... You need July.

Vacation time is precious, don't ruin it by going to a place that is not in season for the type of climbing you're looking for. I've lived in several places across southern BC (including living close to the Bugaboos, Banff, Canmore, Jasper NP, Skaha, Squamish) and you don't want to come up here during that time if all you're interested in is cragging. Skaha may be an exception. Go out to the desert and enjoy the sun!

Mike Ridenhour wrote:I do trad climb, but between my friend and I, we only have enough gear to climb 100 ft or so. The Cliffs in Arkansas don't go over 80 feet.

How much more gear to you think you need to go > 100'? trad gear is generally removable/reusable you know....