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First trip to the RED
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Check out Purple Valley and stay at Land of the Arches. It won't be the zoo that Miguel's is, and it is also closer to the beer trailer. |
Mike Belu wrote:I recommend the "rock house" for a burger and a beer at the end of the day-the food is very good and a nice change from pizza at miguels. If your group hasn't climbed much, check out the arrowhead at pebble beach. They should think its a pretty cool feature. Once u lead, the others can climb.We were actually discussing Arrohead last night. We wanted to lead them up Bedtime for Bonzo but it would be a logistical nightmare with so many I think. Thanks for the food suggestions too guys. |
Ryan Williams wrote:You can't call it "The Gorge." There isn't really a gorge there.Apparently the old schoolers called it The Gorge and as the area grew in popularity it began to be known as The Red (which according to Red River Ruckus sounds like a venereal disease). A gorge per se there is not, but as a geological feature is does have characteristics of a gorge. With that said... Rocktoberfest is busy. October is busy. But, if you go there with this knowledge and peruse the guidebook I'm sure you'll find crags seldom visited that are to your liking. Mix it up- climb some trad, climb some sport and just be willing to cooperate with others if you decide to go to a busier crag. |
Boots Ylectric wrote: We were actually discussing Arrohead last night. We wanted to lead them up Bedtime for Bonzo but it would be a logistical nightmare with so many I think. Thanks for the food suggestions too guys.watch out for lizards.. had one crawl up my hand and off my elbow on lead while climbing arrowhead LOL. I didn't think bedtime for bonzo was that great, and I don't remember a lot of other good stuff in that area. That was in spring though and there was a ton of new growth everywhere so maybe it cleans up better throughout the summer and into the fall. |
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I'm also taking a trip to the red, but I am going during rocktober fest. Not the best planning for privacy but hell, it's THE RED and I only have Sat, Sun and Mon. |
NickinCO wrote: watch out for lizards.. had one crawl up my hand and off my elbow on lead while climbing arrowhead LOL. I didn't think bedtime for bonzo was that great, and I don't remember a lot of other good stuff in that area. That was in spring though and there was a ton of new growth everywhere so maybe it cleans up better throughout the summer and into the fall.I remember that! You were topping out right? |
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Hi Boots: |
Alex Mitchell wrote:Any wall with multible moderate sport lines are going to be gang banged this time of year. There is really no TR lines at the Red. You have to lead them and set a TR.Agree with the former, disagree with the latter. So go to a wall with moderate trad, IE: Fortress Wall Once there, access the mid-cliff ledge and SET TR's as you like, but all with trad gear and long slings. There will be others around, but if you are flexible about what you climb on, you'll find open lines 5.6-5.8. |
Nick Evans wrote:I'm also taking a trip to the red, but I am going during rocktober fest. Not the best planning for privacy but hell, it's THE RED and I only have Sat, Sun and Mon. My question: What can I expect from Rocktoberfest? I wanna hit Long Wall, PMRP, and military wall to climb .8-.10 trad and .9-.12 sport classics. Will I be able to find a parking spot anywhere? Will I be able to find any open routes? Am I stupid for trying to go to these popular walls? I also know about the climbing comp at PMRP on Sat. so I assume it will be packed. Can I get access without joining the comp? I might try the trad destinations on the weekend and PMRP on Mon to avoid crowds.Parking will not be to big a deal and if it is you do not want to be climbing there. If you climb that hard you will be able to find plenty of routes. Long Wall does not get to terribly busy, however Military would be a good wall not to go to on the weekend. PMRP is still open during the comp and has a ton of routes so you should be fine there also. |
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nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded... |
MattG. wrote: I remember that! You were topping out right?haha yep, almost fell backwards! That sport route we lead on gear was pretty awesome, don't remember the name of it though! |
NickinCO wrote: haha yep, almost fell backwards! That sport route we lead on gear was pretty awesome, don't remember the name of it though!Eureka 5.6! Way more fun on trad! |
James Arnold wrote:nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded...If no one goes there how can it be crowded? |
Boots Ylectric wrote: If no one goes there how can it be crowded?He's just quoting Yogi Berra. |
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There are some people who, if they don't already know, you can't tell 'em.... |
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Hit up long wall on your first trad day for sure. Rock wars and autumn are def worth it. I usually run up them twice each time I'm there. If you want a good adventure trad route try jungle beat at the military wall. |
jeremy o wrote:Hit up long wall on your first trad day for sure. Rock wars and autumn are def worth it. I usually run up them twice each time I'm there. If you want a good adventure trad route try jungle beat at the military wall.Jungle Beat is not for a crowd or for Noobs, but it is a great route for sure. |
