Cordelette - How do you carry yours?

Colonel Mustard wrote:To save space, I carry it coiled up in my lower bowels. When I need it I just shit out the tip and pull it out like a tapeworm. I find that this technique saves precious space on my harness and doesn't throw off my equilibrium. That's my two cents. Your results may vary.

bearbreeder wrote:im quite sure they dyneema sewn slings are fine to use as anchors with a masterpoint knot if there is rope in the system otherwise they wouldnt sell it in 240/400 cm lengths ... but who knows maybe DMM has a special no knot sling while BD, Metolius and all the other manufacturers think its fine well see what they say after the weekend petzl has the same take i do on "knotted slings" for setting up raps . which incidentally DOESNT have a rope in the system ... from rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;post=2587929;page=2;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25; Absolutely, Petzl is concerned regarding a fall on any static lanyard onto an anchor whether you have an overhand knot in the lanyard or not. I first want to point out that you should never put yourself in position for any type of fall when positioned directly into the anchor. if you do need to move while at a belay you should avoid a fall factor 1 or greater due to the impact forces you can generate. This information accompanies all of our lanyard technical notices and is also found online, petzl.com/...t/C06-FIN-ANNE… (Third panel down--RG) As a suggestion, when multi pitch climbing Petzl recommends an overhand knot in the middle of a 120cm lanyard girth hitched through the double tie-in points to assist the climber by extending the rappel device off of the belay loop and at the same time allowing you to still be connected into the anchor, petzl.com/...ing_Catalog-20… (page 18 and page 19). Keep in mind regarding the DMM tests that these tests were performed with a static mass falling vertically off of a static anchor point and completely free of any obstruction once in flight. These labs tests are accurate and a great learning tool but when in the field and when you introduce a harness and the human body into the system the impact forces will be decreased because of the stretch of the harness, rope, and body of the climber, etc. there are a lot of ways to kill yourself climbing, i find it quite hilarious personally that the people who have come up to me in real life and try to tell me that my PAS aint safe or some other intrawebs killer thing ... dont wear helmets, which is probably one of the best things to do if you want be "safe" people go mad cow on the intrawebs over dyneema knots, top rope anchors, and other little things when what is going to kill you will be more mundane stuff ... but youd think that PAS/knots/etc are killing climbers left right and centre ;)

If you're going to quote the article, you should quote the most important part. The conclusion is as follows:

"Overall, we should stress that we strongly recommend that you do not construct your own Dyneema® slings by tying lengths of loose Dyneema® tape together."

The tests run by DMM are only indicative of slings created by knotting the ends of the Dyneema together to form a continuous loop.

The question that we're discussing here is one of load direction. Tying limiter knots (ie knots within a closed loop sling system) create loading through the knot, whereas tying a triple fisherman's to form a closed loop creates loading against the knot and can result in severe loss of strength in a low-friction material.

Think of it this way:

A triple fisherman's knot relies on friction to hold the loop. A limiter overhand does not require friction in the system to hold the loop together. I'll concede that tying a limiter knot when extending a rappel device could be an issue, but in that instance you have the sewn termination to back up your knot.