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Chomping at the Bit
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 57
votes
Routes in Transformer Corridor
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Chomping at the Bit T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Boulevard S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dynamo Hum S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heat Wave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just a Pretty Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Live Wire T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Short Circuit T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vibrator T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Dan Sperlock, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,628 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Louis Arevalo on Sep 28, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Located at the far end of the corridor on the left side. Stem and boulder up chicken heads to reach a ledge below the first bolt. Climb up right and reach left to clip the first bolt. Make long moves up jugs and huecos to reach the second bolt. Depending on your height and style climb left or directly up to the third bolt, first crux. Climb 30-40 feet of crack and flakes to reach the 4th bolt, placing gear in the crack along the way. Make technical and reachy moves between the 4th and 5th bolts, second crux to reach the anchor Clip three bolts which follow nice patina edges then follow a small crack to two more bolts above which take you back to nice patina holds. A bit reachy here and there.
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