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Cornflake Crack
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 66
votes
Routes in North Side
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Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ |
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Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R |
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Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brain Dead T A4 |
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Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13 |
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Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 |
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Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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House of Cards Var. A3- |
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Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 |
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Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Not Waste Away T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Aid Route T,TR A2 |
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Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Saint of Circumstance T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shrimp Cocktail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R |
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Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13 |
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Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Waste not want not direct T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Womb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FFA: Hot Henry Barber, 1976 FA: Art Williams, Mike Holloway 1972 |
| Page Views: | 19,173 total · 90/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Is this the best crack climb in the state, or just on the Glass? First freed by Henry Barber on one of his burning-off-the-locals tours in the '70s, this one remains an enduring classic. Whether you, too, will endure remains to be seen.
Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.
P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner. Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance. 5.11a, 80'.
P2: Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead. Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day. Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long! Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry. Most people rap from here. 5.11a, 100'
P3: Greenish flakes contiue to the top, 5.10b, 60'.
Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.
P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner. Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance. 5.11a, 80'.
P2: Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead. Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day. Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long! Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry. Most people rap from here. 5.11a, 100'
P3: Greenish flakes contiue to the top, 5.10b, 60'.
Photos
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