Recommendation for first alpine climb?

I was just wondering if anyone had a recommendation for a first alpine climb. I was thinking of Northeast Ridge on Sharkstooth in RMNP. I just want to have a good first experience and not freak myself out with the fact that it is "alpine"! If anyone has a climb that is relatively easy that they recommend, I would appreciate it!

Sharkstooth has more fun, sustained climbing than Spearhead. The middle section of Spearhead can be simul-climbed. Sharkstooth has a multiple rappel descent. You can walk off Spearhead.

Either one is a great, first Alpine. Have fun!

Sharkstooth was my first alpine climb and I highly recommend it! The route finding is straightforward, fantastic exposure on the upper pitches, and really good climbing overall. Be prepared for a long approach. Have fun!

That's a pretty good objective if both partners are already comfortable with trad multi-pitch at or above that level. It's exactly the same as trad multi-pitch because that's what it is.
The difference is just setting, not the climbing. So beware of weather and loose rock and you'll be OK.

Tony B wrote:That's a pretty good objective if both partners are already comfortable with trad multi-pitch at or above that level. It's exactly the same as trad multi-pitch because that's what it is. The difference is just setting, not the climbing. So beware of weather and loose rock and you'll be OK.

+1

And of course be ready for looong days.

I hear the Eigerwand is pretty classic.. Seriously NE ridge of Sharkstooth or N ridge of Spearhead are pretty fun.

My first alpine was the spiral route on Notchtop (in RMNP). The climbing is engaging without being too difficult and you get to experience all the excitement of alpine (long days, great views, moving efficiently to avoid weather, managing loose rock and wandering routes) without as much commitment. I did the raps off of Notchtop, which are good but make sure comfortable ascending a rope as there is a good chance for ropes to get stuck on those raps (they are a full 50m so you need two ropes).

Sharkstooth is really good but it is a long haul right now (no snow on the approach so there is a lot of boulder-field scrambling) and it has a few tough sections, which can be hard when you have been on the move for 6 hours.

Just as others have mentioned, the setting is what draws you to the climb. Did Sharkstooth on the 14th of this month, and with the low snow this winter and the warmer summer, there was no snow to make traversing the boulder fields easier/faster. Picking ones way through the glacial moraine was quite . . . time-consuming. So again, to reiterate, be prepared for a very long day.

Having done both Spearhead and Sharkstooth, Sharkstooth is a better climb and it has a shorter approach. It also has easier route finding. I've always found route finding to be the toughest part of alpine climbing. Always miss trail junctions in the dark!

Tony B wrote:The difference is just setting, not the climbing. So beware of weather and loose rock and you'll be OK.

Setting includes altitude. It would help to go on the easier side of your trad leading range for your first climb if you're not acclimated or used to routefinding. Also, check in on conditions if you do anything N facing since there's snow/ice lingering right now on some of the shadier aspects. Have fun!

fossana wrote: Setting includes altitude. It would help to go on the easier side of your trad leading range for your first climb if you're not acclimated or used to routefinding. Also, check in on conditions if you do anything N facing since there's snow/ice lingering right now on some of the shadier aspects. Have fun!

Yep, basically have your sh*t together. Bail kit, weather appropriate clothing and the ability to get the heck out of a bad sitch.

And a positive attitude and smile when you're in the suck.