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> Whitney Portal Buttress
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack")
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 31
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Routes in Whitney Portal Buttress
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Beckey-Callis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Gangway T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ghostrider T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mean Streak T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A1 R |
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Nimbus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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No Country For Old Men T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trivial Pursuit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 9,867 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is the right-leaning crack that is labeled "5.11 crack" in the Ghostrider topo posted on the Ghostrider page. This is an awesome pitch and is only 5.10b or so. Very sustained and pumpy. Jam and layback the crack to the bolts.
There are two bolts above the crack if you wish to continue up the slab. The rappel from the second anchor requires a 70m rope.
Location
About 50 feet to the right of the Tunnel-through start of Ghostrider. About 20 feet to the left of the 5.9 bolted start of Ghostrider.
Protection
Nothing but cams. Lots of wide-fingers to hands gear. If you're continuing up on the 2-bolt slab extension, then bring some draws.
There are two anchors, the first ending at the top of the crack and the second further beyond the crack, above the bush on the ledge.
You can rappel from either anchor. The top anchor requires a 70-meter rope.
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